Tell someone you’re going to Papua New Guinea and if they’ve ever heard of the country, they will likely tell you how dangerous it is (whether they’ve been there or not, they’ll have an opinion).
Specifically, they might share how dangerous it is in Port Moresby. This is the capital of Papua New Guinea and the entry point for nearly everyone.
Prior to my first trip to the country in 2010, I heard an earful from a lot of people, including those whom I consider very experienced travelers. It’s not worth repeating their words of danger as I’d only be perpetuating the fear, but suffice it to say… the words of warning had me questioning my own travel plans and frantically sending off emails to the folks who had arranged my tour, asking them for reassurance that I’d return home in one piece.
While I won’t tell you that Port Moresby is safe, I will tell you that what I experienced was not worthy of the dire words of warning and the suggestion that I avoid the city at all costs. To the contrary, I met the most lovely people in Moresby (as the locals call it), shopped for artifacts that were gathered from around the country and browsed through hundreds of unique books from the university bookstore.
Here were the highlights:
After arriving early in the morning from a few days at the Tawali Dive Resort near Alotau, I freshened up, grabbed a quick lunch at my hotel (the Ela Beach Hotel) and then was picked up by my guide for the afternoon, Andrew (pictured right). After a few awkward miles of driving and halted conversation about what I might like to see in Port Moresby, Andrew and I got into a groove. I explained that I was interested in the local culture, I wanted to shop for some artifacts/crafts and wanted to go to a bookstore. Andrew was right on it.
Our first stop was a handicraft warehouse, Papua New Guinea Arts (sadly this has since closed), that Andrew described as the largest in the country. In truth, it probably wasn’t any larger than my home, but I wouldn’t doubt that it was the largest in all of PNG given the lack of infrastructure.
I picked up a mask and a few little statues that the staff packaged for me. If I was confident that I could carry them home, I would have purchased far more. But I was concerned about what I’d be allowed to bring back to the U.S. in terms of shells (which were imbedded in many of the masks) and animal parts such as pigs’ tusks. (I checked the state department’s website on what a person can bring back into the country, but it is pretty ambiguous, suggesting you contact them before you leave the U.S. to ask about items. And really, who knows what you might bring back until you’re actually at your destination!!!)
So, I exercised caution, bought what I thought wouldn’t raise alarm bells with customs and was able to pack a few items into my one carry-on bag.
Andrew and I then headed off to the University of Port Moresby bookstore as I was interested in purchasing a book or two on the tribes of Papua New Guinea–books that I didn’t think I could find in the U.S.
Though the store was closed (likely for their lunch break), they opened it for me and showed me around their quite large selection of books about the country. Unfortunately most of the books were way too textbook-y for me, which makes sense given that it is a university bookstore. But I did find a couple of books for my flight home including The Lost Tribe by Edward Marriott.
Side note – This book ended up being a great read for my flight home. It’s about the author’s travels in the early 1990’s to a remote area of PNG to visit a tribe that had just been discovered two years prior. (Did you get that – this tribe had first contact with the outside world in the early 1990’s!!!!)
While the book was pretty well written and definitely a tale of adventure, it didn’t hold a candle to Kira Salak’s Four Corners, which I had read upon arrival to PNG. This is her own memoir of traveling through the jungles of PNG as a solo traveler. Kira rocks like no other woman adventurer!
Anyhoo, back to Andrew and Port Moresby…
After finding a couple of books, Andrew and I made our way over to the Botanical Gardens at the University. In truth there wasn’t a whole lot to see here except for the caged cassowaries and a few other birds, including the famed Bird of Paradise. But, it was a lovely respite from the city. And I enjoyed walking around–a bit of a luxury in PNG, where one really should not be wandering around on their own.
We then went to the Parliament Haus–the most famous building in Moresby. The building itself features various styles of architecture found throughout the country. And the main lobby has display cases with huge butterflies, moths, insects and beetles under glass. Unfortunately no photos were allowed so you’ll have to take my word for the fact that these alone are worth the visit. Unless you’re going to be traveling around the jungle and don’t 
mind encountering these for yourself, you’ll never see anything like these!
The best part of traveling around with Andrew, however, was the conversation. He mentioned that he was from Huli. Though I hadn’t been there, I was familiar with this town as the home of the Huli Wigmen. When I mentioned that I was familiar with the Wigmen, he nodded and said that he is one and then pulled out photos of himself with his fellow tribesmen. I could have cried with joy!
I have dreamed about this destination (PNG) for more than half my life. I’m fascinated by the variety of tribes found throughout the country. And I have a particular fascination with the Huli Wigmen, who spend years of their lives growing their hair to create fantastic wigs for themselves. And now, here I am with my driver/guide. And I find out that he IS a Wigman. He’s as proud of his tribe as he is his country and city. And, then he offers to bring me and my group to his village when I return to PNG. Life does NOT get better.
So, what’s my takeaway from Port Moresby? As I mentioned, I would not put it in the category of being safe. In other words, you don’t want to wander around on your own and you don’t want to go out at night (even with a guide/escort/security guard). One look at all the barbed wire that keeps everyone in their homes and yards should be a pretty good clue that an evening stroll is out of the question.
But me? I never felt threatened. The hairs on my neck never stood up because I thought danger was around the corner. Instead, I felt that people went out of their way (like at the bookstore) to help me.
Throughout the country this was the treatment that I received. I don’t dispute that some very bad things happen in the cities. An article in the local paper talked about how dangerous Lae, the country’s second largest city is and what might be done about this (likely nothing until the government addresses unemployment and corruption but that’s another blog post…). But for travelers passing through, it doesn’t seem to be a city or country to avoid as the rewards far outweigh the possibility of issues.
Having said all that, I would NOT go to PNG without a tour and would not leave my hotel without a guide or escort. As someone who loves early morning walks for both exercise and to check out the local culture and environment, I definitely felt constrained. But it was a small sacrifice in order to spend the afternoon with a Huli Wigman.
Travel Well!
You do some amazing things, so cool that you’re guide is part of the tribe you facinated with.
Well, the hairs went up on my arms…but mostly because I was so excited to read your story. Fulfilling one’s dreams. It does NOT get any better than that!
An aside on U.S. Customs. So frustrating! I too have checked the site and, while I realize they can’t cover every thing a tourist might bring back, it’s enormously vague. Even food products from European countries…if it’s canned or jarred is it ok? There is just no way of knowing.
Liz, I’m thinking of going with my very large ex military husband and my 7 year old son in April. Would I need to fear kidnap? Where does one find a guide like Andrew? Laurie.
Beth- i’m travelling to PNG to dive in kavieng. i am a 33 yo travelling solo- do u really think i eed a guide if i don’t plan on leaving the airport until i get to my dive resort? Really enjoyed the book, btw 🙂
Interesting article. SOrt of balanced my thoughts about my trip to PNG this August. Just spoke to an Aussie colleague this morning and I was told that she will NEVER ever recommend a trip to PNG (which sort of swayed my plans a wee bit). But then I read your article and it’s back on 70-30 again. Thanks! You rock! 🙂
Beth – thanks for the rap – yeh there is an upside to Moresby and you picked it – friendliest people on the planet (like the rest of PNG though). And you also did it right – travel with a National.
Bit worried about the advice not to go out at night though, maybe we shouldn’t have driven home from Moresby’s Yacht Club tonight.
Cheers pineappleskip
such great information – THANK YOU!
Sounds like you had an amazing time. My dad is going there for a job im just abit woried for him. I was wondering about your escort how did you organise that?
Thanks for this. My husband lives in Moresby and I visit regularly. We don’t feel overly constrained, and we do go out at night (in our own vehicle, and we’re careful to be home by about 9pm). Naturally we’re careul to go to venues with good security, but you can still have a nice time – movies and dinner at Vision City, for instance. I don’t agree that you always need an escort, but you must always know where you’re going and choose your route carefully, and women should have a man with them at night. And always have a good hundred kina on you, in small bills, to buy your way out of trouble – to pay a security guard to change your tyre or jump start you, to pay a crooked cop who’s manufactured an offence to get a bribe, and so on.
Laurie, I wouldn’t worry about kidnapping. The PNG “rascals” are not liked or protected by their own people, so they couldn’t keep a kidnapped child or adult without being turned in. The rascal crime is more your quick in-and-out stuff – bag snatching, holdups, etc. Christine, if your resort is providing the transfer from the airport, I don’t think you need an escort in between. Jackson Airport isn’t too bad, it’s not like the airport at Guatemala City, where you really do need help every step of the way. FDee, if your dad is there for work with a decent company, he’ll have security arrangements. We have an on call security firm with radio contact, full security briefings, etc, and we were given a driver until we could source a car of our own.
Relax people – most of the “”killings”” or violence that goes on there is mostly ethnic /tribal related. Its happens maybe once a year and it does not affect outside clans or foreigners.
Foreigners are scared because they heard something that someone they knew heard it from someone they knew who heard it from someone else etc – The majority of the locals respect foreigners. My advise , just go, do your thing, say hi to the locals, shake their hands, share a cigarette with anyone nearby. I gurantee you will have no problems. The more you isolate yourself and go around escorted with security guards, that’s when you attract the attention of the few minority among the local people known as rascals.
And Why should the locals help you when your in a rough spot when all you do is drive around in an escorted vehicle and isolate yourself every day. You make the rascals think you’ve got something to hide. But if you open up and communicate with every one in your surroundings, you will be untouchable, you got the whole 10 blocks on your side – the word spreads, ” this white man/women is different, his friendly and is not stuck up like the rest”” – There a quite a few Caucasians roaming the streets of PNG because they adjust and come down to the level of their neighbours and surroundings. People get targeted (including Local citizens) because of the way they carry themselves in public. common sense should prevail here people.
MANUEL DAU
Member of the Tribe that just recently got discovered in the 90’s
🙂
P.S locals like to have fun and scare foreigners a little, so the tales you hear from them is greatly modified to scare you. They don’t think about how it affects the way foreigners view the country – they just think about what a nice story to tell the folks at home come dinner time. Most of these so called guides are illiterate uneducated , grade 6 drop outs – don’t take their word on everything. hehehe
Thank you, Manu. I appreciate the overall theme of your comment, that the vast majority of people going to PNG will not have a problem. However, you cannot deny the fact that some terrible things happen to both New Guineans (particularly women) and foreigners.
People should be extremely cautious in their travel to the country and to suggest that people just go about their day like they might in another country is a bit reckless. And how are we to know that the machete-wielding tribesman is only having fun with us or means serious harm?
I, too, have heard many a story that was about a friend of a friend but that’s likely because the person it happened to doesn’t return or doesn’t want to talk about it.
Ultimately, neither you nor anyone can guarantee our safety. The best protection is caution.
Hey people, PNG isn’t a bad place as you think it is. Its the media and extra crap from people that makes this place look bad. Were not primitives, we are just like any other people or should I say just like you. We have a lot of lovely people here who wouldn’t do nothing to hurt you. Its just a few people here who tarnish our name and cause a lot of fear in people travelling here. I have been to Australia a few times and get asked about life here. Yeah its tough but it isn’t that bad at all. You just have to be wise where and when you go around and im sure that’s no different from any other country so please do come to this beautiful country and experience a lot of love from the people here.
wandering educators, you don’t have to be worried about anything. I don’t wanna say anything to make you feel better. Im sure you will enjoy your time here when you come
I WANT TO SAY I HAVE PAPUA NEW GUINEA IN MY WHOLE HEART. IN FACT I LOVE THAT COUNTRY. SOME OF MY FRIENDS KEEP ON SAYING PAPUA NEW GUINEA IS NOT A PLACE TO VISIT, BUT I WISH ONE DAY I WILL PACK MY BAG OFF TO PNG.
Hi
Will be travelling to PNG in Nov. Any local guide that you can recommend to us? Our first stop will be to Tari from Port Moresby.
Would appreciate if can provide us with one with email.
Thanks.
I’ll send you an email, Colin.
Hi
I am a female who will be travelling to POM for a few days on business, in October. I will be staying in a Hotel. Is the security ok in Hotels there?
Any tips on safety in Hotels if I am a lone traveller?
Thanks
thanks for the read. I would have no fear. don’t be stupid and carry your Rolex and you will be just fine. I go over the world and have not had a problem except here in the states. Have fun and learn.
Hi
I am a female and I have got an opportunity to work in port moresby. I am quite excited however my family thinks that its not a safe place to live nd work.
Can you suggest anything?
Hi Jerril,
I’ll email you regarding this…
Beth
Hi, great read. I am a Papua New Guinean.
thank you for portraying my country positively. in fact, PNG is safer than many countries. in port Moresby, at especially at night, there are certain suburbs that are “no go” zones for people who don’t reside there.
Furthermore, all the hotels have good security, so one’s safety is guaranteed.
If you want to see the real PNG, you need to travel out of port Moresby. alotau, tufi, kavieng, kimbe and wewak are some beautiful places where you can visit.
I am a Papua New Guinean and I heard and read in the daily newspapers of more serious crimes happening in the other side of the world. There is no serious crimes in PNG accept for petty crimes only relating to daily survival. Anyone travelling to PNG should not focus on Port Moresby only, there are more lovely people in rural areas then in the cities. why not having adventures beyond the capital?
mal