I was fortunate to have arrived in Kerala just days before Amma, the hugging mother known for her seemingly limitless ability to hug anyone who’s willing to wait in line, left her ashram for an India and then world tour.
While I don’t consider myself a devotee of Amma, I know many people who are and who attend her events worldwide whenever they can. My curiosity about her was piqued enough that I hopped on a train for the 30 mile ride from Varakala to her ashram and compound at Amritapuri.
Thinking that I would walk into the usual disorganized, elbow-in-the-ribs, Indian push to get at the head of the line, I was pleasantly surprised when I was greeted at the international desk and given a “token” that put me in a group of those that would be the first to be hugged (given darshan, as they say) that day since I was a day visitor. Many pilgrims were there for an overnight or longer visit and their numbers were higher than mine, assuring an evening or overnight squeeze.
The building itself in which darshan is given is a large open space where seats are set up for those waiting for their numbers to be called. This cuts down on the time one has to stand in line (which is amazingly short). Amma is set up on a stage, surrounded by ashram residents who support her while she’s hugging by handing her treats (candies and fruit) that she then passes on to those she is hugging.
Thousands of people were there the day that I attended and I was told that it was a surprisingly light day (given that she was leaving the ashram for her tour).
I noticed that even when she was hugging some of the Indians, she was carrying on conversations with her helpers during the hug. And since she doesn’t speak English, I had to wonder if she was speaking directly to me during my hug (I’m told that to women she says “my daughter, my daughter” in Hindi) when my head was buried in her rose-smelling armpit.
While I didn’t go through any transformation during my hug, I was touched to sit and watch her for the hour or so that I was sitting on the stage waiting my turn. Her boundless energy and ability to provide love, support and empathy to so many for extended periods of time was touching.
Happy Travels!
You can also read about my India travels on my blog at the Seattle Post Intelligencer.
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Kango TravelBug says
Hi Beth!
I have recently discovered your website and have really enjoyed reading about your experiences throughout India. I really admire your pluckiness…in being a lone woman traveler.
How interesting to spend your day embracing people! I bet that it takes a real toll on her body! As funny as it sounds, I imagine it would take a lot of love and compassion to ‘hug all day’!