Even after seeing hundreds of photos of the Taj Mahal over the years, my breath was still taken away at the first glimpse of this amazing piece of architecture. What makes it even more stunning, I believe, is the fact that it is surrounded by mayhem. Tiny streets and alleyways surround the entrance gates. As you make your way through these dusty streets, barely wide enough for two rickshaws to pass each other, shopkeepers and rickshaw drivers try to lure you to them.
You know that the Taj is just beyond a gated area, but you’re unable to see it.
Once in the compound that includes beautiful gardens, however, you round a corner and this iconic marble beauty comes into view. It’s stunning and humbling.
The Taj Mahal is actually a mausoleum built in the mid 1600’s as a memorial for Emperor Shah Jahan’s wife, who died giving birth to their 14th child. Unfortunately, today, the marble is beginning to show wear and is becoming discolored due to pollution and acid rain.
We made the mistake of carving out a few days to spend in Agra, expecting to take in the Taj a couple of times (sunset and sunrise had both been suggested), as well as some other sites on the outskirts of town. We discovered, however, that visiting the Taj should be done as a day trip from Delhi (express trains leave Delhi in the mornings and return at night). There was so much smog in the area, that we didn’t see much of the sun at all (except for brief appearances), let alone as a backdrop to the Taj at dawn or dusk.
In addition to the smog, nothing prepared me for the full-on assault by rickshaw and taxi drivers, hotel clerks, shop keepers and anyone else with a service to sell. Worse than the aggressive behavior we encountered in Jaipur, the locals in Agra seemed desperate and with desperation comes persistence that’s sure to wear down the hardiest of travelers.
In general, I actually felt unsafe in Agra and was so put off by the persistent (and shouting) rickshaw drivers that we cut the trip to one night (expecting to spend as many as three) and got the heck out of dodge as quickly as we could. Rather than waiting for a train, we called a taxi service to pick us up and bring us to Delhi.
Happy Travels!
Tiffany says
Thanks for the great post! My son (age 8) are going to India in April – can’t wait! I am debating between the train and the drive to Delhi – how long did the drive take from Agra to Delhi? Would you recommend your driver?
Thanks! Tiffany
Administrator says
I would recommend a day trip from Delhi (The Taj is closed on Fridays, so don’t go then). There’s no need to spend any more time than a day in Agra and you can easily visit the Taj and the Fort during that time. I saw lots of comfy-looking tourist buses that were in town for the day and I’m sure you can easily book one while in Delhi. I’d recommend our driver Hari, but not the other two drivers we used from his company. Not sure if there’s a way to reserve Hari but if you email me (beth at forwomentravelingsolo dot com), I’ll send you his email address and you can at least connect with him in advance. You’re going to have a great trip!
Cerena says
Hi Pertaining to your post below, mind if I could have Hari’s contact? Planning for a trip to Delhi this Christmas and would like to get some advise on how many days to stay in Delhi before I go and book the flight tickets (as I’ll be travelling with two young kids, one 27 mths old boy and another 8 mths old boy). Any advise is much appreciated. Thanks.
On February 14th, 2007 at 9:33 am, Administrator said:
I would recommend a day trip from Delhi (The Taj is closed on Fridays, so don’t go then). There’s no need to spend any more time than a day in Agra and you can easily visit the Taj and the Fort during that time. I saw lots of comfy-looking tourist buses that were in town for the day and I’m sure you can easily book one while in Delhi. I’d recommend our driver Hari, but not the other two drivers we used from his company. Not sure if there’s a way to reserve Hari but if you email me (beth at forwomentravelingsolo dot com), I’ll send you his email address and you can at least connect with him in advance. You’re going to have a great trip!
Cerena says
Hi Beth, mind if I could get your advise on how many days to spend if this is gonna be our first trip to New Delhi (planning to go to Delhi as I’ve long wanted to visit the Taj Mahal). I’ll be going with two young kids (26 mths old and another 8 mths old boy). Any advise is much appreciated. Many thanks.
Jess says
Great post, i m visiting India for a week next month. And i think now that you advice to spend just one day in Agra , i think i will see what i can do in new dehli 🙂