Just when I thought I knew most of the sights of Hong Kong, I saw a billboard advertising The Museum of Coastal Defense. Although it had opened in 2000, my husband and I had never of it, and the former Fort – including several old batteries – sounded pretty interesting. With our days in Hong Kong numbered, we set off to see this very worthwhile sight.
The Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defense lies at a strategic position overlooking the eastern approach to Victoria’s Harbor and the city’s financial center. Most notably, it is the point at which the Japanese forces invaded the Territory during World War II.
We entered a small building off the Museum parking lot to purchase our tickets (HK$10 or about US$1.25 each) and catch an elevator to the top of the hill, where we found the entrance to the Museum. A converted fort, it features exhibits on the Territory’s defense from its pre-colonial days to the end of the twentieth century. From the museum building, one can walk down the hill and explore old bunkers, cannons, and even a torpedo room.
The British built their first barracks on this sight in 1844. Shortly after, they were forced to abandon the area when disease struck. In 1885, with threats from France and Russia looming, they returned to construct batteries on the southern headlands. According to the Museum web site, “Eighteen casemates were then constructed to function as barrack rooms, magazines, shell store and coal store. The structures were then concealed by earth. The construction was largely completed by 1887.”
Over the years, the British built additional batteries and installed guns to cover the approach to the Lei Yue Mun Channel, which separates Hong Kong Island from Kowloon and serves as the eastern gateway to the South China Sea. In 1890, a torpedo station was installed. The accompanying plaque informed us that – at the time – it was the most powerful underwater weapon in the world. The Fort was never attacked, and as time passed, it became less important.
This all changed on December 8th, 1941, when the Japanese launched their invasion of Hong Kong by crossing the narrow channel from Kowloon. The British fought until December 19th when the Fort finally fell. After the war, the British used the premises for training before abandoning it altogether in 1987.
View of Lei Yue Mun Channel, where you can also see one of Hong Kong’s villages; the Museum; and view of the Museum from the street:
Address: 175 Tung Hei Road, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong
Telephone: 2569 1500
Web site: http://hk.coastaldefence.museum
Opening Hours: Monday to Wednesday & Friday to Sunday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m
Public Transport: 15-minute walk following road signs from Exit B2 of Shau Kei Wan MTR Station.
No.85 Citybus, running between North Point Ferry Piers and Siu Sai Wan.