By Rachel Diebel
Sometimes passed over in favor of its bigger, flashier cousins Madrid and Barcelona, Granada, Spain, nonetheless has a lot to offer the interested traveler. Granada is a city best explored on foot (and with a map), as its narrow and sometimes unmarked side streets can often lead to the discovery of unexpected gems off the beaten path. Granada can be somewhat confusing to navigate at times, and the best way to familiarize yourself with the city is to get just a little bit lost on one (or all) of these three city walks.
More about Spain: What to do in Barcelona | What to do in Madrid
The Rio Genil
The Rio Genil runs through the edge of central Granada from east to west, providing a great landmark to help those new to the city remember where they are. An excellent starting point for any visit to Granada is a long walk along the river. Start from Puente Genil, a bridge at the end of Acera del Darro, one of Granada’s major streets, and walk upstream.
This walk is a great introduction to Granada because it passes much of the city without making it too difficult to find your way back. Put away your map and just enjoy the stroll past apartment buildings, schools and tennis courts.
Eventually you will come across the odd phenomenon of Granada’s free outdoor weight training equipment, where joggers often break to do some lifting (in full public view) before continuing their run along the river.
On one side of the river, the path runs down close to the water, a favorite area for dog walkers and a great walk for people too–just watch where you step! Lastly, enjoy the spectacular view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The farther up the river you walk, the better you will see them–and they’re worth the walk.
Alhambra
Unquestionably Granada’s biggest claim to fame, the Alhambra is an 11th century Islamic palace built and rebuilt over the centuries by many different kings. It’s a steep but beautiful climb from the city center. Head northeast and follow the signs marked “Alhambra” until you come to a nicely graveled road lined with beautiful trees. From there the uphill climb really starts.
Though steep, the way up is beautiful, talking you past well-manicured gardens and ancient buildings built from the 11th century. Take breaks along the way to catch your breath and enjoy the view of the city.
After about twenty minutes of walking, you’ll reach the top of the hill–the Alhambra itself. Take a moment to walk to the edge of the overlook and take advantage of the water fountain there–you’ll need it after the climb up the hill. Be sure to look down at the city of Granada spread out before you. With the Sierra Nevadas forming the perfect backdrop, it is a breathtaking sight.
Though entrance into most of the main buildings in the Alhambra, including the famous Court of the Lions, costs approximately 15 euros, there are several free areas worth exploring. Aside from the overlook balcony, populated with tourists and wild cats, there is the beautiful two-level, circular entrance to the Alhambra and a free art gallery with a surprisingly interesting collection of paintings and statues.
Albayzin
If you’re up for a bit of a challenge and a lot of exploring, consider taking a walk up to the Albayzin area in northern Granada, one of the oldest parts of the city.
Start at the cathedral in the city center and meander slowly up a street called Reyes Catolicos, talking in the dozens of zapatarias (shoe stores) and heladerias (ice cream parlors) along the way. Popular with tourists, the upper half of Reyes Catolicos is nonetheless striking. Running parallel to the river Darro, the street is full of merchants and street musicians who set up shop every day to tempt tourists with woven bracelets and haram pants. Bridges arc over the river and the buildings on the opposite side are charmingly shabby.
If you’ve got a little extra time, stop by the convent near the end of the street. There are signs posted next to the door advertising dulces–sweets–for sale. It’s worth stopping in to purchase some for a few reasons. First, the powdered-sugar covered doughnut-like dulces are delicious. Second, they are sold through a rotating wooden door by the cloistered nuns who live in the convent, so that the nuns are never seen by outsiders.
After you’ve satisfied your sweet tooth and your curiosity, turn left off of Reyes Catolicos and find your way up to a good viewpoint by choosing the steepest streets. Up at the highest point of the Albayzin, outside the church of San Nicolas, you can take in the famous view of the Alhambra and hear top-notch street performers sing (and dance to) traditional music.
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Photo credits:
Alhambra: Romtomtom via Flickr
Rio Genil: Jesus Solana via Flickr
Walk to Alhambra: Rachel Diebel
View of Alhambra from Albayzin: Rachel Diebel