Photos: Some of the appetizers at the Family Li Imperial Restaurant.
Earlier this fall, my book club read The Last Chinese Chef. Fortunately for us, one of our members, Tao, who was born in China, said the story reminded her of that of an acquaintance, a member of the Li family, and suggested we dine at her restaurant. As she recounted her friend’s tale, the similarities between it – and that of the main character in The Last Chinese Chef – did indeed seem remarkable.
You can find the Li Family’s fascinating story on its restaurant web site (http://www.familylishanghai.com/fl/enflash/main.htm), but below is a short synopsis. For those traveling to Beijing, the restaurant is worth finding, though with no signage, it can be a challenge. In December, Tao took our book club there, and I enjoyed the best Chinese meal I have ever had. Six weeks later, I find myself day dreaming about the wonderful dishes I experienced, each more succulent than the last.
The Family Li web site tells you that it all started with an ancestor, Li Shunqing (in China, the surname comes before the given name), who was employed as the Lord Secretary during the Qing dynasty in the last days of imperial China. His responsibilities included protecting the Forbidden City, and specifically, overseeing security issues and the imperial kitchen.
At that time, a meal for the Empress Dowager would include more than 100 dishes. Li Shunqing was responsible for the safety of each dish as well as the eunuchs who were assigned to taste the food to ensure it was not poisoned. Leftovers were given to the Ministers, which meant Li Shunqing became very familiar with the taste of Chinese imperial cuisine.
During Li’s tenure, the Qing government ordered hundreds of chefs from all over China to make one dish each. Li Shunqing not only tasted each dish, he recorded the recipes. When the Empress died in 1908, Li Shunqing returned to his village and wrote down each recipe from his tenure in the Forbidden City. These in turn were passed down to each new generation of the Li family.
As imperial China fell, so did the fortunes of the Li Family. Li Shunqing’s son squandered the family fortune and became impoverished, but the cooking traditions continued. The story picks up with Li Shanlin, a Math Professor, grandson of Li Shunqing , and expert on Chinese cuisine – and his four children, to whom he passed on his love and knowledge of imperial Chinese cooking.
In 1984, to celebrate the country’s 35-year anniversary, a national cooking contest was held, drawing 2,800 participants from across China. One of Li Shanlin’s daughters acted as the family’s delegate and entered and won the contest. The next year, the family opened “Family Li Imperial Cuisine,” which consisted of one small room with one table. The restaurant has now grown – but not by much. If you are headed to China, Family Li Imperial Cuisine should be on your itinerary. It ranks right up there with the Great Wall. And it tastes better too.
Read more about the Li’s at their web site: http://www.familylishanghai.com/fl/enflash/main.htm
Or better yet, go there:
Tel. 6618 0107 for reservations
11 Yang Fang Hutong, De Nei Da Jie, Xicheng, Beijing 100009
Enjoy other food stories here: http://wanderlustandlipstick.com/blogs/wanderfood/