Photos are of Gold Souk, Spice Souk, Dubai Creek, and city wall.
The day after we returned from our desert camping trip in Abu Dhabi, we hitched a ride with our friend, who was travelling to another Emirate on business, and spent a couple of days in Dubai. Most of what I had read about Dubai focused on the city as a cross between Disneyland and Las Vegas, or more recently, the Emirate’s financial woes. I was unprepared for another impression of Dubai, perhaps not seen by those who dwell only in the city’s upscale resorts.
We opted to stay in Dubai’s old town since most of the sights that drew us to this famous crossroads – the souks (local markets) – and Dubai Creek, the lifeblood of the city’s old town – would be within walking distance. While our older hotel, which in any other city would have been considered very nice, paled in comparison to Dubai’s over-the-top, ostentatious abodes found in the new part of town, the location (and price) could not be beat.
We immediately set off to explore the Dubai’s gold and spice souks. According to Discover Dubai’s February issue, the city imports over 500 tons of gold per year and boasts over 800 jewelry shops. Because of its low import duties, it is one of the cheapest places to purchase all that glitters. The souk is worth a visit if only to be dazzled by so much gold on display in a relatively compact area. One’s eyes cannot help but be drawn to the row upon row of sparkling bangles, chains and charms.
Walking through the sparkly maze, it occurred to me that visually speaking, Dubai was probably the most diverse place I had ever travelled. While New York, Hong Kong and London all offer different degrees of ethnic diversity, the traditional dress found on locals and visitors alike in this city set it apart. We strolled among African men and women in their colorful native gowns and scarves; Emirati men in long white robes, called dishdashas, and women in black gowns and head scarves (abayas and sheylas); and Indian men in sarongs. It was a colorful scene that brought to life Dubai’s position as a crossroads for Asia, Africa, and beyond.
We wandered from the Gold to the Spice Souk where we were enticed into stores by the wonderful scents. It was at this point that my daughter – gazing at the frankincense – was reminded of her school’s nativity play, in which she proudly played the part of one of the three wise men. With an active imagination, she chose this particular moment to launch into creative play, assigning my husband to be Balthazar, herself Caspar, and me Melchior. My husband and I stopped in our tracks as she yelled, for all to hear in this Muslim country, “Melchior! You need to bring your gold; otherwise, you won’t have a gift for Jesus!” Luckily, in the bustling souk, no one paid her much attention.
Exiting the narrow lanes of the exotic and fragrant spice souk, we found ourselves at Dubai Creek, once a haven for those seeking shelter from pirates and storms. The canal is still active with dhows – large boats – loading and unloading goods destined for Iran, Oman, and other foreign lands. We caught an abra, a small boat once powered by oars and now by diesel engine, to cross the creek and visit the city’s small heritage village and textile souk.
The Heritage Village is completely reconstructed and was empty the day we visited. The most compelling sights were a sign for “yummy camel burgers” and a chunk of the old city wall. Still, our explorations had provided an unexpected glimpse at Dubai’s past. We looked forward to the following day, when we would explore the city’s glitzy present – and future.