Photos:  Dates, friendly waiter, homemade pita bread, vegetable plate, stuffed vine leaves, hummus and falafel. 

Usually, food plays a big part in our vacation planning.  It is so important to our enjoyment that there are countries we no longer visit because we just don’t care for the local cuisine.  When considering the UAE, our focus was entirely on visiting dear friends, so on this occasion, I didn’t think much about the food until I arrived, when it quickly became apparent that Abu Dhabi would be one of those wonderful destinations where it is hard to find a bad meal.

On our first day there, my friend, Nicola, took me to a grocery store.  I love visiting foreign supermarkets, which give a unique insight into a country.  In this one, I admired the six different kinds of eggplant, and the bakery’s “Arabian sweets” looked so tasty that we bought some to take camping.   The number of different types and styles of figs was also intriguing (those from Iran were most expensive).

While it is illegal for Muslims to purchase pork or alcohol in the UAE, some stores offer special areas marked, “For non Muslims only,” where one can buy pork products.  The government also runs special stores where non-Muslims may acquire alcohol, which can also be found on the menu of many western restaurants.

On the restaurant front, Abu Dhabi and Dubai offer the full spectrum of international cuisine.  The local food is heavily influenced by Lebanon, and though we had many fabulous meals on this vacation– both in expensive restaurants and on the street – our favorite dinner was at a restaurant called the Lebanese Flower. 

When we pulled up to this bustling cafe, there was a minor traffic jam in the parking lot, and we soon noted the brisk take out business.  Given the crowd outside, we were surprised to be seated in the dining room without waiting.  What followed was a wonderful feast of Lebanese treats, pictured above.  Total cost for four adults was just under US$30.

Photos are of Gold Souk, Spice Souk, Dubai Creek, and city wall.

The day after we returned from our desert camping trip in Abu Dhabi, we hitched a ride with our friend, who was travelling to another Emirate on business, and spent a couple of days in Dubai.  Most of what I had read about Dubai focused on the city as a cross between Disneyland and Las Vegas, or more recently, the Emirate’s financial woes.  I was unprepared for another impression of Dubai, perhaps not seen by those who dwell only in the city’s upscale resorts. 

We opted to stay in Dubai’s old town since most of the sights that drew us to this famous crossroads – the souks (local markets) – and Dubai Creek, the lifeblood of the city’s old town – would be within walking distance.  While our older hotel, which in any other city would have been considered very nice, paled in comparison to Dubai’s over-the-top, ostentatious abodes found in the new part of town, the location (and price) could not be beat.

We immediately set off to explore the Dubai’s gold and spice souks.  According to Discover Dubai’s February issue, the city imports over 500 tons of gold per year and boasts over 800 jewelry shops.  Because of its low import duties, it is one of the cheapest places to purchase all that glitters.  The souk is worth a visit if only to be dazzled by so much gold on display in a relatively compact area. One’s eyes cannot help but be drawn to the row upon row of sparkling bangles, chains and charms.

Walking through the sparkly maze, it occurred to me that visually speaking, Dubai was probably the most diverse place I had ever travelled.  While New York, Hong Kong and London all offer different degrees of ethnic diversity, the traditional dress found on locals and visitors alike in this city set it apart.  We strolled among African men and women in their colorful native gowns and scarves; Emirati men in long white robes, called dishdashas, and women in black gowns and head scarves (abayas and sheylas); and Indian men in sarongs.  It was a colorful scene that brought to life Dubai’s position as a crossroads for Asia, Africa, and beyond.

We wandered from the Gold to the Spice Souk where we were enticed into stores by the wonderful scents.  It was at this point that my daughter – gazing at the frankincense – was reminded of her school’s nativity play, in which she proudly played the part of one of the three wise men.  With an active imagination, she chose this particular moment to launch into creative play, assigning my husband to be Balthazar, herself  Caspar, and me Melchior.  My husband and I stopped in our tracks as she yelled, for all to hear in this Muslim country, “Melchior! You need to bring your gold; otherwise, you won’t have a gift for Jesus!”  Luckily, in the bustling souk, no one paid her much attention.

Exiting the narrow lanes of the exotic and fragrant spice souk, we found ourselves at Dubai Creek, once a haven for those seeking shelter from pirates and storms.  The canal is still active with dhows – large boats – loading and unloading goods destined for Iran, Oman, and other foreign lands.  We caught an abra, a small boat once powered by oars and now by diesel engine, to cross the creek and visit the city’s small heritage village and textile souk. 

The Heritage Village is completely reconstructed and was empty the day we visited.  The most compelling sights were a sign for “yummy camel burgers” and a chunk of the old city wall.  Still, our explorations had provided an unexpected glimpse at Dubai’s past.  We looked forward to the following day, when we would explore the city’s glitzy present – and future.

Moreeb jun dune:

For the Chinese New Year break, we decided to visit good friends from Hong Kong, who had moved to United Arab Emirates at the same time we moved to Beijing.  We took an Etihad night flight to Abu Dhabi, arriving in the capital city at 6:40 am.  As we landed, we remarked at the flight attendant and map’s reference to the “Arabian” versus “Persian” Gulf.  Coincidentally, we read upon our return to Beijing that such references infuriate the Iranian government, which has threatened to ban all airlines that do not use the latter.

Our friends met us at the airport and suggested a camping trip to the Liwa Desert that very day.  We jumped at the opportunity to visit the Empty Quarter, an area that encompasses about 1/5 of the Arabian Peninsula and includes parts of the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Oman, and Yemen.  One of the largest deserts in the world, its inhospitable climate and vast landscape have left it devoid of any human settlement throughout the centuries.  In the winter months, however, our friends assured us an unforgettable journey to one of the more beautiful places on earth.

We arrived in time to observe our daughters’ attempt to scale a massive sand dune (we all climbed it the following day) and watch the sun set.  Though we saw animal prints in the sand, we saw little sign of human life, which, after crowded Beijing, felt almost eerie.  We embraced the emptiness and peace, which also turned out to be convenient as we barbecued our pork sausages.   We didn’t have to worry about causing offense in this Muslim country.

While we may not have seen other people during our one night sojourn, our peace and tranquility were disrupted after dark as we heard the distant rumble of “dune bashers.” We learned the next day when we drove over to Mareeb Jun dune, that a dune buggy competition had wrapped up the previous day and there were literally hundreds of 4×4s camped around the event site.

Visit DeliciousBaby’s  to see more photos.