8 Islands, 4 Equator Crossings, 1 Night of Choppy Seas . . .
“There are no good hair days on the Galápagos Islands,” claims Roni, a fellow passenger aboard the MV Evolution.
After several futile attempts to keep my own in place, I nod, letting mine whip across my face.
But then we’re not here for a fashion shoot of wet suits and snorkeling gear. Right now we have more important things to think about, like learning how to prevent or survive an unlikely water emergency:
For hypothermia, “Wrap arms around each other. Hug and huddle in a group; if alone, curl up into a ball to stay warm.”
Got sharks? “Get back-to-back with another passenger (assuming your swimming buddy hasn’t already high-tailed it back to shore), lock arms, put legs out in front” to reduce the shark’s angles of attack.
To board and disembark from pangas, the inflatable boats that zip us among the islands and back to the mother ship, “Grab the forearm, not the hand, of the crew member.”
Almost as scary to me is the warning we receive not to flush toilet paper down the toilet because it could plug the plumbing and then we’d be in a . . . well, a heap load of trouble. Instead, we’re told to dispose of the paper in the nearby basket, a common practice throughout the country.
If only old habits weren’t so hard to break.
Our Ship – the MV Evolution
We’re a diverse party of 22 passengers with an all-Ecuadorian crew of 18 aboard Quasar Expedition’s MV Evolution, a 32- passenger classic yacht, the base camp for our islands adventure.
Following the crew’s comprehensive, anything-but-standard safety briefing, our focus turns to the “Enchanted Isles” of Ecuador, our cruise destination for the next 7 days.
The Galápagos at a Glance
This is the Galápagos Islands, an active volcanic archipelago of 13 large islands, 6 smaller ones, and over 40 islets, 600 miles off the western coast of South America, atop the equator.
Here are the islands the Bishop of Panama declared to be “hell on earth” upon his unintended visit in 1535. But one man’s “hell on earth” is another man’s source of endless fascination. Over 200 years later a young Charles Darwin would arrive aboard the H.M.S. Beagle, approaching this forlorn and desolate landscape with a scientist’s curiosity and questioning, resulting in his landmark work, Origin of the Species.
What would we find? I wondered.
San Cristobal Island
After a short flight from Quito, Ecuador’s capital, and a brief stop in Guayaquil, the country’s most populous city, we have arrived on San Cristobal Island to a warm welcome by our crew for the start of our cruise journey. Our naturalist guides waste no time in prepping us for the “wet” and “dry” landings that will define the days ahead.
Today we’re headed to Cerro Brujo (Wizard Hill) and a white, sandy beach for the first of our “wet” landings, which means we’re wearing water shoes, as we come to the front of the panga, and swing our legs over the side into the cool, shallow water.
Once ashore, we step around dozens of sleeping sea lions. Between these slumbering beach guardians and the Leon Dormido (Sleeping Lion), aka Kicker Rock, offshore, I’m ready to take a snooze myself.
But, for now, I simply enjoy a meditative moment where all is right with what feels like the beginning of the world.
Nancy Hinchliff says
Nancy, I know you are having a wonderful time, as I did a couple of years back when I took my grandson, twelve years old at the time, to the Galapagos. We, like you, first flew to Quito where we stayed, 2 nights going and 2 nights returning home from, in a hostel. I wanted him to learn about hosteling and to visit a 3rd world country.
The islands were amazing and I would highly recommend taking children 10 and up. When the trip was over, he looked at me with wide excited eyes and told me “…it was awesome, grandma” I was in my 70s and, although I had to take advantage of the canes that were passed out to passengers over 65, I was able too get around and complete a special trip that I had been wanting to take all my life.
I love you site and travel logs…keep finding great places to go!!
Heidi says
This sounds like such an interesting trip. Thanks so much for sharing.
Nancy Mueller says
Thanks, Nancy! What a wonderful gift you have given your grandson. I agree – we need our children to see the Galapagos Islands so they will know first-hand how important it is for all generations to preserve this pristine natural habitat. I’m glad you were able to navigate the terrain, with and without a cane ~
Nancy Mueller says
You’re welcome, Heidi! The Galapagos Islands are so unlike any place I have ever visited. It’s fun for me to share my adventure ~
Jenjenk says
That looks so amazing – and unique!!! Would love to go there!
Nancy Mueller says
I hope you do make the Galapagos Islands a destination! Thanks for stopping by ~
Beth Shepherd says
So lovely…so lucky!
Nancy Mueller says
So true, Beth! Your turn next ~
Debby Jagerman says
What an awesome place to go, the Galapagos. I was there almost exactly three years ago. Although I was on a different boat, we got a similar introduction talk about safety and other items. Ours also included that hot water for showers was only available in the morning between 6 and 7am, and then “sometime” in the evening. Looking forward to reading more and seeing your photos.
Nancy Mueller says
So glad you were able to go to the Galapagos, too, Debby! There’s really no other place like it, is there? Thanks for commenting – and please do come back again for more of my adventure with photos ~
Shirlene from Idelish says
Sounds and looks like an amazing trip! The cruises to Galapagos are over our budget at this point of time, but you’ve convinced us that maybe it’s time to start saving up!
Nancy Mueller says
As you can tell, I definitely recommend making the Galapagos a travel priority, Shirlene! You have to see these “Enchanted Isles” for yourself, up close & personal.
Christopher says
It’s one of my dreams to do the Galapagos. Thanks for this.
Nancy Mueller says
Hi, Christopher ~ I wish this trip for you! Thanks for following along here ~
InsideJourneys says
Great tips. This is a trip of a lifetime!
Nancy Mueller says
Glad you appreciated the tips, Marcia! I know I appreciated the safety diligence of our crew aboard the Evolution. And you’re right – this was truly the trip of a lifetime! Thanks for stopping by ~