Live Like a Local in Italy’s Cinque Terre

Though it’s akin to picking among your children, everyone who visits Italy’s Cinque Terre region holds a secret favorite among its five villages. It could be argued that Vernazza is the sexiest; that Corniglia offers the most amazing views. My favorite? The simple, steep-sided hamlet of Manarola, because an amazing stay there let me sink in and feel the local pride of my adopted temporary hometown.

Rather than book at local hotel, my sister and I opted to rent a small vacation rental during our time in the Cinque Terre through the fantastic A Casa Cinque Terre. This local, family-run business not only has a great roster of local vacation rentals, but they can also arrange cooking classes, olive oil and wine tastings, boat excursions and more. Rentals are available in each of the 5 villages that make up the Cinque Terre, as well as the outlying towns of Levanto, Porto Venere, Volastra and La Spezia. Supporters of the Slow Food Movement, the family behind A Casa Cinque Terre collaborates with local families and artisans to create some wonderful locally-based opportunities for visitors.

Through a few emails with Claudio at A Casa, we were able to select the perfect rental – a studio flat in Manarola called “Giorgio 1”. It was a superb deal at only 85 Euros a night for the 2 of us, and Claudio was very helpful via email pre-departure, answering my questions and even advising me about the local train schedule.

We arrived in Manarola a bit after dark, but Claudio was waiting cheerfully for us when we got off the train. He walked us up the hill to our little home, showed us in and gave us a fantastic recommendation for dinner in town. It was spotlessly clean, and while sparsely decorated inside, boasted incredible views from the patio which ran the length of the apartment and could be directly accessed via french doors off the bedroom.

ACTUAL VIEW!

These are the sort of memories that now color my stay in this sweet little town: we heard church bells in the morning, watched locals farm their garden plots on terraces across the narrow valley, drank in the sight of vibrant orange trees in bloom in the neighborhood, saw laundry fluttering like Italian prayer flags in the breeze, and we greeted locals on the cobbled footpaths as we set our each day to explore. We enjoyed tea in the morning and wine in the evening on our little patio with its unforgettable view. To me, these are the makings of a “local” stay, immersed in the rhythms of daily life.

The benefits of a local vacation rental like this are easy to see:

• - Often these rental flats are located in the neighborhoods, off the main streets which are noisiest


• - Having a kitchen to cook in makes it more cost effective and homey, with the added bonus of shopping at local markets for provisions!


• - Much more of a local feel in a local neighborhood


• - Support locals! This rental service helps them hold on to their family properties in an area where property values have skyrocketed


• - Allows for a much more relaxed, self-catered pace and greater independence


• - Many rentals will fit more than 2 people (great for families)


• - Actually a better value than hotels in many cases!

On our final day, Claudio encouraged us to wander down to Manarola’s waterfront and find him at his home to drop off the key. When we met up, he invited us to the cafe down the block where he bought us an espresso and stayed to chat. We learned about his home and family here in this beautiful corner of the world, and he too wanted to know about us and what drew us to the Cinque Terre. Parting ways, it felt like we were leaving a friend and a familiar place. We made plans to return before we were back on the train.

STAYING IN THE CINQUE TERRE

My recommendation? Get your home base through A Casa Cinque Terre and stay as long as you can. There are days worth of simple exploration to be had, either via the village-connecting trail or by hopping the local train. This is defintiely the kind of place you want to sink into and pace yourself, savoring the slow and simple traditional way of living (which is in danger of disappearing!). The Cinque Terre becomes a hive of tourist activity in the summertime. I found that March was a great time to be there – beautiful days and no crowds. In all cases, book as early as possible.

Also visiting Venice on your Italian odyssey? Here’s my recommendation for the best local accommodations there.

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I had a long-ish layover in Miami so I took the local bus down to South Beach to check things out. What a wacky and wonderful corner of the world! The first thing that struck me was the cool rounded edges and pastel colors of the many art-deco era buildings. It gives the whole place this sort of Gotham-meets-CareBear Land sort of feeling.

Strolling down Collins Ave., I heard snatches of conversation in at least half a dozen languages. The air carried the smell of Cuban cigars, expensive perfume and suntan lotion. Passing iconic hotels such as The Raleigh and The Carlyle, I caught glimpses of poolside cabanas that surely shielded Esther Williams in another time. Stopping for lunch and award-winning people watching at the Front Porch Cafe, I found the rooftop pool hovering above me en route to the restroom.

Just across the way from the retro splendor of Collins, I find another great Miami prize – a prime stretch of beach! This well-used strand was dotted in hotties sunning themselves and bronzed and man-scaped dudes jogging by in hot pink shorts. I was happy to see numerous lifeguards, but not a lot of litter, on my urban seaside stroll.

I exited the beach just behind a woman who had wrapped a towel around her itsy bitsy bikini and thrown on some pink stilettos as she stepped off the sand. In her hand was a dubious cocktail in a plastic cup. She reminded me a bit of South Beach itself – brash, colorful, unapologetic and always ready to party. Seattle, my neutral-hued and mild-mannered home, could take a cue.

National Geographic has a great Miami walking tour for your spin down Collins. Be sure to hit up Delicious Baby for more Photo Friday fun!

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There seems to be a disturbing trend in the “eco-lodging” title these days. Magazine and websites herald “top green hotel picks” aplenty, but rarely reveal any true sustainability beyond organic cotton sheets or recycling bins. (A good start, but not a long-term sustainability plan!) Vancouver’s Listel Hotel does just the opposite. Beneath its classy exterior, this art-centric hotel has green running deep.

Ideally located in downtown Vancouver’s West End, The Listel Hotel is close to the sparkling waterfront, the sprawling green gem of Stanley Park, fantastic restaurants, eye-popping window shopping, galleries galore and easy transit options to the outlying neighborhoods. If you come to attend any of the numerous festivals, concerts, theater showings, or cultural events you are in a great spot to access it all.

My partner and I recently enjoyed a late-winter long weekend at The Listel. Stepping into the lobby, we found a modern, fun space with the art right up front. The Listel is known as Vancouver’s “most art-full hotel”, and rotating art installations throughout the property make this more than just a place to hang your hat – it becomes part of the experience. After checking in, making our way up to our room was a drawn-out affair. Whimsical kinetic sculptures by the elevators kept us entertained for quite a time, and we lingered to admire the Northwest Coast carved mask on display as the elevator delivered us to our floor.

We were thrilled to stay on the Museum Floor, where all the rooms are decorated to “celebrate the Great Pacific Northwest”. Through a partnership with UBC’s Museum of Anthropology, these rooms showcase original art by Northwest Coast artists – no standard-issue hotel art here. The focus of our visit was enjoying First Nations’ art and culture, so this really cranked it up a notch on the geek-o-meter. The room’s color palette of soothing earth tones and hemlock and cedar furniture complemented the surrounding mountains, water and forest fringing the city. We had a great view up the lighted thoroughfare of Robson Street, as well as slivers of Vancouver Harbour between the tall shards of glass skyscrapers, from both the full wall of windows and a surprising, spacious corner deck. Being surrounded by art, even finding The Vancouver Stories – West Coast Fiction from Canada’s Best Writer’s in place of Gideon’s in the night stand, made for a special stay.

I could have stopped right there and been happy with my stay. But looking deeper, I learned about The Listel’s commitment to green initiatives, and that’s when I realized this was more than a sweet boutique hotel. The Listel takes its sustainability to heart.

Among The Listel’s impressive sustainability initiatives:

• The hotel is 100% zero waste; that means all organic waste is composted, all recyclables are reused, and all their non-recyclables are converted into electricity (through a partnership with green electric company Bullfrog Power).


• They are participants in the City of Vancouver’s “Corporate Climate Leader” and Tourism BC’s “Tourism Ambassador for Conservation” programs and they’ve received 4 Green Keys from Hotel Association of Canada (their highest rating, and the only independent hotel in Vancouver to receive it).


• The installation of 20 solar panels and an innovative heat recapturing program has reduced their natural gas use by nearly 50%.


• The Listel has re-outfitted virtually every piece of equipment on the property – from the cappucino machine to the air-conditioning unit – with new, high-efficiency models to save loads on energy and water and reduce pollution.


• Their sustainable purchasing program means not only green cleaning products, 100% recycled paper toilet paper and tissue, and organic coffee, but also that all products are sourced as locally as possible with a focus on green practices in selecting vendors.


• The Listel has done away with the tiny amenities bottles and has launched a bulk amenities program instead, resulting in eliminating over 45,000 plastic bottles annually.

The eye to sustainability certainly extends to the on-site restaurant, O’Douls Restaurant and Bar, as well. As members of the Green Table Network as well as the Ocean Wise seafood program, O’Douls chef Chris Whittaker showcases the local bounty. The space is lovely during the day, even mid-winter, with light pouring in via skylights. At night, it turns into a cozy noted jazz venue, hosting some of the best jazz acts to pass through town.

In addition to the rotating art installments to enjoy, The Listel’s services also include valet parking, WiFi and free local and US calls. The valet parking is a bit spendy, but parking in this ‘hood is tight, and the secure underground lot provides some extra peace of mind. Not to mention, the valet driver left us cookies on the dashboard when we checked out!

The Listel is a fun, friendly and comfortable place to come “home” to after a day spent exploring Vancouver. As a champion of both the arts and sustainability, I can’t think of a more inspirational place to stay!

Guest room photos provided by The Listel. I was generously hosted for this stay by The Listel; the thoughts and opinions in this review are strictly my own.

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