Maui is one of those heavenly destinations that’s gorgeous from almost every spot; but one in particular keeps visitors focused in the moment, the drive over the top of west Maui. This drive is not the one visitors generally hear about when planning a trip to Maui. Many visitors focus their attention on the drive to Hana, which makes this particular drive that much more fun as there are few cars, stunning views, cliffs, hair pin turns and delightful beach stops. Along the way you’ll even discover the tiny village of Kahakuloa with it’s charming church overlooking the ocean.
Realistically you want to give yourself four hours or more for this drive. This gives you plenty of time to make little stops to explore beaches, views and the reality of driving on winding west Maui roads. The drive it’s self is about 25 miles and the road is quite good; I used Maui Revealed as my companion guide for the drive. I made the drive alone, so taking pictures was pretty much impossible except at pull out stops or beach stops and overlooks. If you want pictures of the most stunning views then a companion is necessary.
The drive is incredible, hands down it is one of the most memorable days I’ve ever spent on a vacation and this is probably due to the fact that this drive requires you to live completely in the moment. The roads are narrow, curvy and have hair pin and blind curves. There are two small one to two mile sections of the road that narrow to one lane. One is going into and out of Kahakuloa so visitors need to drive extremely slowly and be ready to pull into a turnout to allow a vehicle to pass. Maui Revealed recommends making the drive from west to east in a clockwise direction. They say the sights are better from this direction and that visitors rarely discover the drive from the other direction so traffic would be flowing with you. Also they note that driving from this direction allows you to be on the inside lane, which is always more comforting when passing a car on a narrow stretch. Their guide book devotes nearly seven and a half pages to this drive and it’s gorgeous sights.
One of my first stops on the drive was Mokule’ia Bay or Slaughter House Beach. I know, it sounds disgusting but let me assure you, it is worth the stop. The beach received this unflattering name in the 1960’s due to the fact that a slaughterhouse used to be in operation on the cliff overlooking the beach. Today there is only a gorgeous beach which is accessible with concrete steps down to the shoreline walkway. The day I visited there were only a handful of people on the beach and the waves were those rocking surf waves that Hawaiian beaches are famous for. This was not a swim beach; only a well versed surfer would want to handle the undertow and waves I watched. Yet the wild beauty of the waves, and the rocky cliff make it a great stop on your journey.
Another must see is the Nakalele Blowhole. The view and amount of water you will see shoot into the sky varies with the tides and the surf. I saw a pretty amazing view but my Maui Revealed guide said it can shoot as much as 70 feet in the air! This is a spot you can enjoy viewing for some time. The rugged and treacherous lava and rocky coastal view here are quite breathtaking.
One of my stops was one recommended by Maui Revealed. Panini Pua Kea Fruit Stand is located outside of Kahakuloa and feels pretty much in the middle of no where. You notice it as you are passing the large pull off and you can easily pull right in. This is a must stop break from the intense driving and for the homemade cookies and banana bread she sells. I chose the cranberry oatmeal cookies that she sold and they were the best I’ve ever tasted. I have wished many a time to be back at that tiny wooden stand to enjoy those cookies with a view of the water! According to Maui Revealed the banana bread is made by a woman named Julie, and is the best on the planet. I have to say I give the same rating to the Oatmeal Cranberry cookies!
One of my favorite aspects of this drive is the fact that it takes intense concentration. You are livin in the moment. There is no worrying about anything besides what you are doing on that road and the beautiful sights you are seeing out the window. It is probably the closest you can get to a focused meditation without meditating I have ever experienced. It is just you, the road and the beauty of west Maui surrounding you.
The view down on Kahakuloa town is to die for. It is this tiny village in the middle of a lush green valley, surrounded by cliffs. There is a tiny, charming church and a water view. I will never forget that view or the hairpin turns and curves with no guard rail! Memorable doesn’t begin to describe it!
Kahakuloa area flickr photo by: y etonces
West Maui Hawaiian Congregational Church flickr photo by: Mozul