The smoke from Will’s cigarette drifted up to join the cloud that hung just below the brick cave’s low ceiling. Smoke particles refracted the stage lights—violet, fuchsia, and yellow—giving the tiny room a hazy glow. Patrons packed every table, filled every chair, the crowd a mix of local music lovers and tourists appreciating Prague’s vibrant musical culture.
The venue was AghaRTA Jazz Centrum, Prague’s hottest spot for jazz, tucked away down a hidden stairwell in Stare Mesto (Old Town). Will (a Briton who was occupying the next bunk at the hostel) and I were jazz novices, first-timers on this smoky, moody scene. AghaRTA’s playlist is packed every night of the week, and this particular evening, we were audience to the AghaRTA Gang, featuring saxophonist Stepan Markovic, whose strong features recalled a balding Kirk Douglas.
The four men onstage played their instruments as well as their archetypal jazz characters. The piano player was the affable emcee, introducing each number with a little light commentary and a friendly smile. The bass player was brooding, with a mop of curly dark hair and a fixed, pensive expression. The drummer was wild, sweat pouring down, in his own world of pounding drumsticks and shivering cymbals. And there was the star, Mr. Markovic, off to the side of the stage, smoking a cigarette and waiting for his cue—his appearance on stage sending the crowd into rounds of applause.
The songs were mostly upbeat and quick-tempoed, with an occasional lingering, longing melody mixed in for contrast. Many of the selections were American fare, certainly classics to any attuned jazz ear. The tightness of the room created a feeling of intimacy between the audience and the musicians. There was no talking, no dancing, just a hundred people sitting in rapt attention of four music-makers giving it their all.
AghaRTA is one of several fine jazz venues in Prague. Check out a list of them here. And if you can make it this fall, you’ll be in for a treat—the city will be hosting the 2008 Prague International Jazz Festival, an event that’s entering its 45th year of existence. But whenever you visit and whatever you do, don’t leave Prague without a lungful of smoke and an earful of jazz.
Up next: Prague’s hard edge.