I think I can, I think I can, I think I can. I thought I could, I thought I could, I thought I could. The Little Engine That Could
Faster than a speeding bullet. Well, ok, I’m exaggerating. But it was very fast. Better than any rollercoaster ride at Disneyland. Except maybe the Matterhorn. One of the most off-the-wall things I have done when traveling. No kidding. It’s not Amtrak. It’s not Eurail. It’s not a narrow gauge railroad, nor a steam locomotive. It’s the Bamboo Train in Battambang, Cambodia.
Bamboo train, you ask? A train that carries bamboo? No. A train that travels amongst the bamboo trees? No. A train made out of bamboo? Yes. This functional train consists of sitting on a three meter wide by 5 meter long wood platform which is made out of slats of ultra-light bamboo. With no walls, and no chairs. The platform is built on a steel frame that lays on two sets of wheel rods, which are like long barbells. Powered by a 6HP gasoline engine. Even a dried-grass mat is added on top of the platform for comfort (or perhaps to avoid splinters). You are out in the open when riding. Enjoying the fresh air, as you see the Cambodian shrubbery and countryside in Battambang whizz by.
And when I said fast before, I meant fast. On ups of speeds of 40 kilometers per hour. About 25 miles per hour, according to some sources. And my ride was at least 15 minutes long. One way. And at least 15 minutes back the other way. And no seatbelt, no helmet, and not much to hold on to, except maybe a piece of wood like a railing in the front. Risky? Yes, perhaps. Remember to hold onto your hats, purses, bags, and cameras. And if you have long hair, you might want to tie it up, with the wind that blows your hair around. Maybe even wear some glasses to protect your eyes from the wind.
You may also want to bring some earplugs along as well. It is loud. The tracks, while they are flat (no ups and downs like a rollercoaster), are somewhat misaligned at places, and each time the train hits one of the places where two pieces of the tracks connect, there is a slight jolt, and a loud clanking noise.
Note that you are also quite low to the ground, as the bamboo platform is only about a foot or two from the tracks. So please, for your safety, remain seated with your seatbelt fastened (oh wait, there are no seatbelts) keeping your hands, arms, feet, and legs inside the train at all times. And please, watch your kids.
Historically the Bamboo Train, which in Khmer is called norry or nori, has been an unofficial part of the Cambodian transport network for years. It has been used to transport rice, vegetables, charcoal, livestock, wood, even motorcycles, and people. Sometimes as many as 15 people at a time. Basically, anything that will fit on them. They are an efficient mode of transportation for the Cambodians. Although, I don’t believe the norry are used as much today as they have been in the past.
There is only one track though, and as we were speeding along, I wondered what happens if another train is coming towards you? How do they stop? And how do they continue? Well, I found out. The drivers do see each other. And fortunately they are able to slow down and stop. Then the rule of thumb is the one with the most people or other cargo on it gets seniority. Therefore, the train with fewer passengers, or a lighter load, needs to disembark. Right next to the track.
Then one of the trains is dissembled. Right there. On the spot. First the fan belt (which is like a large rubber band) of the gasoline engine that is connected to the rear axle, is taken off. Then the bamboo platform is literally picked up by the two drivers, and laid on the ground along side the tracks. Then the two wheel rods are lifted, like a weightlifter lifting barbells, and also placed along side the track. One train is now ready to go. And then the assembly of the dissembled train is done. Wheel rods placed on the tracks; platform placed on the wheel rods; fan belt reconnected; engine started; and you’re off. All of this is done quite efficiently, within a minute’s time.
So with all this, you may ask, was this fun? Well, yes in many ways. Although I admit, the cautious side of me was a bit concerned. Is it worth doing? Well, in some ways, as I said before, it is definitely an off-the-wall travel experience. But if you are concerned about safety, while I don’t know of any statistics, then please proceed with caution. And you may not want to try this at home. Although, I suppose it might be safer than all the motorbikes, and all the traffic, on the busy roads of Cambodia.
When you get to the other end of your ride, there is a village where people will try to sell you items like clothes, accessories, drinks, and food.
So while it is fast, loud, and bumpy, the Bamboo Train is also a part of Cambodian culture that may be worth experiencing. (But I hold no responsibility for anyone’s safety.)
Sweet (and fast) Travels!