One of the most fascinating areas of Taiwan lies in the far east coast of Hualien county. Once very isolated and home to a substantial portion of Taiwan’s aborigine population, the county is now a popular getaway spot for tourists and locals alike.
The main attraction (aside from the inspirational rugged coastline) is Taroko Gorge. About an hour’s drive from the Hualien train station, Taroko National Park covers three counties. Whisking visitors back through history to a time when mass urbanization hadn’t yet touched Taiwan, the marble gorge beckons the brave and adventure-thirsty.
I’ve been lucky enough to explore the gorge twice–once when my brother came to visit and another time by myself. The most fun (and best) way to see the gorge is by motorbike though tour buses are also available. The snaking roads can get precariously narrow and the drive is not for the faint of heart (the roads often get congested with heavy traffic from cars and tour buses), but the rewards of exploring the area by motorcycle are well worth the risk.
Magnificent cliffs, rivers, and deep, forested marble canyons are present throughout the main 19-km-long trail.
There are a number of twists and turns to explore (hiking permits are required for certain areas within the gorge) and some of the more scenic areas include:
The Eternal Spring Shrine (長春祠), Buluowan (布洛灣) (an old tribal settlement), and Swallow Grotto & the Tunnel of Nine Turns.
One of my favorite memories in Taiwan has to be when I traveled to the gorge alone and during a downpour, I found the seemingly hidden Buluowan village high up on a mountainside. Heavy rain and fog clouded my vision and I felt as if I’d stumbled upon a forgotten world.
Taroko National park is home to 144 species of birds, 251 species of butterflies, 32 species of reptiles, 18 species of fish, and around 30 different types of large mammals. The elusive Formosan black bear is said to lurk somewhere in the subtropical forests, a precious gift to behold as the bear is extremely endangered in the country.
At the end of the main trail, visitors will come upon the small village of Tianxiang. Here lies the lovely Xiangde Temple, an all women’s Buddhist monastery and one of the most peaceful places I ever visited in Taiwan. The monks who live there are very friendly and sell vegetarian snacks as well as small gifts in the tourist shop.
Taroko Gorge represents the wild, raw beauty of untouched earth and I hope it continues to be a treasure of Taiwan for many years to come.