Bhutan: Thirteen Traditional Arts and Crafts, The Institute of Zorig Chusum, and One Large Beautiful Museum

“If you’re a good human being, then the skills and knowledge you acquire will benefit the whole society. Otherwise, it is like giving a weapon to a child.” – His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk, the 5th King of Bhutan

During my days in Bhutan, I felt like I was not only in a country, but I was also in one large beautiful museum. Everything, and I mean everything, was so colorful, intricately decorated, and quite artistic. From the grand architecture of the buildings, including the homes, palaces, bridges, temples, and monasteries; down to every painted and sculpted detail on the outside, and the inside of these buildings, was well worth the price of admission.

From the thousands of representations of religious figures, whether in statues, or in carvings, or in thangkas (religious pictures either painted or embroidered); to the weaved clothing (such as the kira and gho, the national dress of Bhutan for women and men), to the paper, and even the kitchen utensils. My hotels were as grand as the other buildings; and I came home with appliqués, wood carvings, paintings, and more.

I visited the school where many Bhutanese acquire the skills that decorate the country, where the people study and then contribute to the museum-like quality of Bhutan. The National Institute of Zorig Chusum, translated as “to make science thirteen,” is where 13 traditional arts and crafts are taught. Here I witnessed the concentration, the attention to detail, the talent, and realized the time put into each work of art, whether it be a small statue of Buddha or other deity, or a larger chorten (a religious structure containing religious relics), or a tool, or an instrument.

The 13 traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan are deeply rooted in their religion, in Buddhism. Thus there is much significance to all that I was seeing. Many of the arts and crafts produce ritual items like the masks worn in religious festivals, or symbolic items placed on altars in temples, or the murals and frescoes inside temples and monasteries that tell stories of Buddha and other important religious figures.

These arts and crafts have been practiced since the 15th century in Bhutan, and were formally categorized into the 13 traditional groups towards the end of the 17th century. Passed down from generation to generation, studying these arts and crafts today involves an intensive 4-6 years of training at the Institute. Students live at the Institute’s hostel where the government of Bhutan finances room and board, and opportunities for employment once finished with the studies are in demand. For example, “instructors and students paint houses, thangkas, and temples, and create other culturally significant art objects. They contribute their skills to the beatification of both public and private buildings.”

Even some of the various representations of the fable of The Four Friends is created by the extremely talented people who study at the National Institute of Zorig Chusum. (Actually the fourth picture in that blog is of a sculpture of The Four Friends that is seen when you enter the Institute.)

Specifically the 13 traditional arts and crafts are: drawing and painting, sculpture, carving (wood, stone, and slate), calligraphy, paper-making, casting, tailoring (stitching clothes, embroidery and appliqué, and boot-making), weaving, carpentry, masonry, bamboo and cane weaving, gold- and silver-smithing, and blacksmithing.

Now I could make a long list of what products each of these 13 categories creates, but that has already been done, and I have included several links below which describe in more detail the materials used and the products created. I could have also included in this blog many, many, many photos of examples of the products and buildings. But I wanted this blog to be a tribute to the talented people who create it all, to those who turn Bhutan into one large beautiful museum.

(The quote at the beginning of this blog is in the background of the third picture.)

Sweet (and artistic) Travels!

Please click here for more of my blogs about Bhutan.

Bhutan Excursions: The Thirteen Traditional Arts and Crafts of Bhutan (Zorig Chusum)
Bhutan Travel Portal: Zorig Chusum: The Thirteen Traditional Crafts of Bhutan
Craft Revival: National Institute of Zorig Chusum (Traditional Arts and Crafts)
Bhutan Cultural Atlas: Introduction to Arts and Crafts (Zorig Chusum) in Bhutan

You would have thought that I had never seen a fruit or a vegetable in my life. Or at least, I bet that is probably what my Bhutanese guide thought as we wandered through the fruit and vegetable section of the Centenary Farmers Market in Thimphu, Bhutan. For what was probably the good part of an hour, I took picture after picture after picture of just about every potato, tomato, onion, green pepper, lettuce, cauliflower, asparagus, of course red and green chilies, and bitter gourd there was. Not to mention taking photographs of each apple, banana, orange, pineapple, and watermelon. Needless to say, my guide was very patient.

Well, ok, I didn’t take a picture of every single fruit and vegetable, but I certainly did take a lot of pictures. And that was just in the fruit and veggie section. Just think of how much time I spent, and how many pictures I took of the beef, pork, fish, eggs, cheese, rice, spices, and beans of the Centenary Farmers Market. You would have thought that I never seen food before in my life. I’ll bet that is what my guide thought.

There is something about visiting local outdoor markets when I travel that I just love. Obviously it is the food, both seeing and tasting. On the visual level, I like the colors of the various fruits and vegetables, nicely stacked, one pile of brown against another pile of red, against another pile of green. Even though many fruits and vegetables are the same as what I can buy back home, the taste isn’t necessarily the same in another country. Of course seeing and tasting fruits and vegetables that are unique to the country that I am in is definitely a delight (like that bitter gourd).

On a deeper level, visiting markets shows me the culture of a country. It is a way of experiencing the people. Watching the locals buy and sell, wandering around, visiting with each other, and socializing. It is a way to see the locals doing their shopping, living their lives.

Yes, I actually did take a lot of pictures of fruits, vegetables, food, and all the other items at the Centenary Farmers Market. While I have seen fruits and vegetables before, I have just never seen them in Bhutan before.

Sweet (and local) Travels!

Thanks, Pema, for being patient!

Please click here for more of my blogs on Bhutan.

I had only been in Bhutan for five days when I saw this poster. It had taken me only those five days to realize the extreme importance, and the deep belief and faith, of the Buddhist religion in the country.

Buddhism is part of everyday life in Bhutan. Its values and concepts permeate everywhere. In visiting temples and monasteries, I heard mesmerizing music and chants, heard people praying, and listened to monks memorizing their studies. Buddha statues, paintings, and artwork adorn these temples and monasteries, as well as other places. I learned religious stories and their meanings, and was told about several significant historical religious figures. Prayer flags flapping in the wind, and the turning of prayer wheels, release blessing for all sentient beings. People circumambulate chortens (a religious structure containing Buddhist relics), while using mala beads to count mantras being chanted. Meditation, prostrations, and performing a variety of rituals, are part of daily life of the Bhutanese. I even learned a few mantras myself in my five days, attended a Buddhist festival, and saw many monks in their red robes.

So when I saw this poster, in the lobby of a hotel of all places, I stared at it for several moments. I looked at the faces of each boy. Each monk who had begun to learn the value of their Buddhist religion.

Then I read the words. Over and over again. At the highest level. At the highest level. Something resonated in me with those words. The meaning behind the words. Those boys were learning their Buddhist religion, and the depth and importance of it, at the highest level.

But more than that, they are striving to live their lives at the highest level. To achieve their highest possible goals. To attain the highest possible level of happiness. Beyond that, perhaps all people in Bhutan, not just the monks, strive to live their lives at the highest level, to achieve their highest goal, to attain the highest level of happiness.

And beyond that, people all over the world strive for the same. To live our lives at the highest level.

So I took my one photo of this poster. And while the flash against the glass unfortunately created a reflection, I still stare at this poster. To remind me. To remind me of the deep level Buddhist religion plays in Bhutan. To remind me of the level that they strive for in their lives. To remind me of the level to strive for in my life. At the highest level.

Sweet (and the highest) Travels!

Please click here for more of my blogs about Bhutan.