With its rich Russian history, the city of Sitka has long captivated my imagination. Before my visit, I wondered how much of its Russian influence is still visible today.
I didn’t have to wander too far to discover the heart of that dominance: St. Michael’s Cathedral, Alaska’s most famous Russian orthodox church, located in the center of town.
The cathedral, a National Historic landmark, is distinctive for its cross-shaped architecture with two enormous domes and steeples. While the exterior of the structure is beautiful in its simplicity, its interior is adorned with silver and gilt-covered icons, including religious paintings, plaques, screens, chalices and crucifixes and richly embroidered vestments.
It must have been such a heartbreaking scene in 1966 when the original church was destroyed in a fire, just four years after being granted its landmark status. Once the townspeople realized the church couldn’t be saved, they banded together to retrieve the priceless treasures inside, saving all but the bells, the clock in the bell-tower, and the large icon of the Last Supper above the Royal Doors.
This was the second tragedy that had befallen many of the icons. Several, including the silver-encrusted icon of St. Michael the Archangel, had been retrieved from the Russian warship, the Neva, after it sunk off the coast of Sitka, taking its precious cargo along with it.
Today the rebuilt church stands on its original site, a symbol to the faithful, and a reminder of the resilience of the city’s inhabitants.
Nancy, your post brought back memories. When I was in Russia in 1994 on a business goodwill trip, and later when I brought Russian bankers to the U.S. to reciprocate, I was touched by how my Russian friends celebrate their culture in their everyday lives.
Always singing, telling stories and then sharing their meaning.
For those who have not been to Russia, the mental image might be Soviet-style buildings and the stand-offish exterior Russian’s sometimes present in public. But much like New Yorkers who seem standoffish in crowded subways but are friendly and helpful once you get to know them, Russians are as well.
Some of the best times were in homes eating good food and singing Russian ballads.
Thanks for the reminder.
Eating good food and singing Russian ballads are two of my favorite memories, too, Linda! In my case, it was when I was studying Russian at the University of Washington. Once a week we would have a potluck and our professor would lead us through the rounds of favorite Russian songs. Thanks for sharing your reflections with us!
Very nice, Nancy! Something I love about St. Michael’s is that it so gracefully straddles dual worlds: huge tourist draw, with the constant summer crowds flooding through, and a still-relevant, actively-practicing faith community. I’ve never gone to a worship service, but love that the sign out front says that their services are done in English, Russian, and Tlingit.
With your Russian history, you MUST have seen the Archangel Dancers, right? I hope so!
Thanks, Tele! For me, one of Sitka’s greatest appeals is its cultural crossroads. I would love to have attended a service at St. Michael’s if I had been there longer. Sadly, I’ve only seen the Archangel Dancers in clips on YouTube. Next visit!
Reading your post reminded me, again, how much I enjoyed my trip to Alaska. Oh to be roaming.
I’m glad, Brenda! There is so much to explore in Alaska. I’m ready to go back myself . . .