Bangkok can be described in many terms: sprawling, noisy, beautiful, and chaotic are just a few. It’s easy to be deflated by heavy heat, pollution and traffic when you stick to the roads in the heart of the city.
I think one of the keys to enjoying any big city is to find new and unique ways of moving through it. When the Tourism Authority of Thailand recently hosted me in Bangkok I was offered some options to explore this sprawling metropolis by alternative modes, one of which was by bike.
Admittedly, I was initially skeptical of a bike tour in the heat and chaos of Bangkok. In a place where crossing the street is a game of chance, and during the unbearably hot and muggy days leading into the monsoon season, the simple effort of commandeering abide through Bangkok was daunting. I started to relax when we met up with our guides, Mr. Bottle and Mr. Esso from Spice Roads, and they outfitted me with a good Trek bike and a sound-looking helmet.
A quick cruise down a side road brought us to a pier, and once ferried over to the far side of the Chao Praya River to the historic Thonburi area, we were soon off the streets and cruising pleasantly down back alleys through the neighborhood. The tangle of traffic felt far out of reach, and soon I had a big smile on my face as I peddled casually and called out hellos to the residents and merchants going about their daily lives. Kids played with their grandparents on back stoops, women hung out the laundry, dogs napped in the shade and the smell of roasting peppers and garlic mingled with whiffs of laundry soap and motor oil as I rolled through the scene. Ahh…
As part of the tour, we made several stops along the way to observe some craftspeople at work. Stepping into the workshop of one of the last remaining begging bowl makers (the bowls are used by Buddhist monks to gather alms), was an affront of heat so intense I thought my face would melt. When I learned this was a dying trade as the younger generation pursues modern jobs in the city, I can’t say I’d blame them, though it is a shame to think this art form will fall out of the hands that have held it for generations.
Further along, we stopped to watch men pounding out sheets of gold leaf, which are applied to buddhas by temple-goers as a way of making merit. Sweat poured down their bodies as they heaved huge mallets in the air and dropped them with a rhythmic bang. I learned it takes five hours of this intense physical effort to flatten a single sheet of a gold leaf, and again felt torn between the need for preservation of traditional crafts and the right for a changing culture to adapt and earn a living without such toil.
Riding on, we found ourselves moving out of the city and onto an urban jungle path. Passing through the blessed shade of spice plantations growing galangal and kaffir lime, at times the thick swampy air smelled like a sweltering Thai kitchen. Our guides recommended we keep our eyes on the route as the potential of bailing off of either side of the elevated pathways in this area and landing several feet below in a swamp was fairly high. Not the strongest bike rider, I still felt there was plenty of room and just a bit of concentration needed when locals passed occasionally on the narrow walkway, but an inexperienced cyclist may find themselves walking the bike around some of the tighter curves in this section.
At a welcome stop at a local temple, the Spice Roads van arrived with cold drinks, fruit and sticky rice to bolster us riders, as well as chilled towels for a much-needed face refreshment. Truth be told, although my original fears regarding the sketchy traffic were alleviated by our back-alley routes, the concern for riding in the heat was legitimate. I sweated profusely during the ride and had to be diligent on my water intake in order to avoid dehydration. Though the riding is all flat and never difficult, any act of physical exertion in this kind of heat is exhausting. By the time we reached our terminus and Spice Roads finished our excursion with a fabulous local lunch, I was feeling famished and spent, but also quite happy.
Thinking about booking a bike tour in Bangkok? I was pleasantly surprised by this experience and would encourage it for a different view on the ancient city of Krungthep. My only regret is that the stops we made to watch the artisans at work were just that – an invitation to watch, but no real opportunities to engage with the locals and ask questions. Be sure to dress cool and comfortable, and even though you’ll be given water for the ride, I’d bring extra along.
Spice Roads offer this day trip with an additional side trip to a floating market for about 2500 baht, which includes transfers to/from your Bangkok hotel. They also offer a shorter half day version for about 1500 which I’d consider looking at, especially if heat exhaustion could be an issue. There’s many other tour options around Thailand and other destinations in SE Asia on their website as well.