What do Anthony Bourdain and skiers have in common? Certainly, “a love for food” serves as an acceptable answer to that question. It might be a stretch to compare on the same level, but skiers truly are foodies at heart. Really, who doesn’t like to wine and dine after hitting the slopes?
There is a point to this though, one that goes beyond Mr. Bourdain and skiers loving to chow down. Our interests intersect in one particular place: Raku-ichi in Niseko, Japan. For his well known show, No Reservations, Anthony Bourdain visited this little soba house in February of 2011 and gave it rave reviews. I finally made my own way over to the now infamous Raku-ichi, following in his footsteps.
What is soba?
A thin Japanese noodle made from buckwheat flour, mainly produced in Hokkaido, Japan’s most northern island.
Guests of Niseko United can’t technically ski down to Raku-ichi, but it is a stone’s throw away from Annupuri resort. In my books, it’s still a hot, semi ski-in-ski-out dining venue. Set in a rustic building consisting mainly of exposed framing wood, Raku-ichi is as unpretentious as it comes. Luckily for us, Ski Gypsy Man and I happened to be there on an unusually quiet afternoon. Rumor has it that soba-lovers can typically expect a 30 plus minute wait on any given day; no reservations are accepted for lunch (no pun intended).
A sparse menu is on offer, but it’s one that delivers on the delicate flavors and textures of Hokkaido. The real highlight of the experience is watching the soba master wield his magic, as he rolls-out and hand-cuts the dough carefully prepared that morning. Soba is traditionally served cold, meant to be dipped in either a cold or hot broth. I opted for a hot broth infused with duck and herbs I could not possibly begin to identify. Bottom-line: it was oishi (delicious).
The silence of the venue was only interrupted by copious amounts of slurping. Though I should be used to this perfectly acceptable Japanese behavior by now, I had to stifle the urge to laugh-out-loud. After a few seasons here, my North American manners still don’t allow me to follow suit. Instead, I sat with my shoulders convulsing as I silently giggled.
I wasn’t the first and certainly won’t be the last to make good on Anthony Bourdain’s recommendation. The delicious food and welcoming atmosphere provided by this family owned business will no doubt keep hungry skiers satisfied for years to come.
Winter is coming,