While living in Hong Kong, I loved hiking because at the end of the walk, there was almost always a beach with a wonderful seafood restaurant. I distinctly remember thinking, “Now this is my kind of hiking!” I recalled these experiences recently while walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, which could also be called, “The Trail of Tapas.”
Known in English as The Way of St. James, the Camino de Santiago de Compostela is a network of pilgrim routes that were especially popular during the middle ages. Originating throughout Europe, all walking trails converge in the city of Santiago de Compostela, the alleged burial place of St. James the apostle. Earlier this month, two friends and I decided to walk the last two days of the most popular route, the “Camino Frances.”
We began our journey in the small town of Arzua. Our first priority, before beginning our walk, was to find something to eat. We quickly learned that “desayuno,” the rough equivalent of “breakfast” in Spanish, is comprised of coffee and a piece of toast or a sweet roll. Hardly enough to sustain a day of walking. We ventured into several cafes in search of “desayuno con huevos” (breakfast including eggs), and were nearly abandoning hope when we ventured into Praza, where the woman behind the bar told us she could serve us eggs “in the French style.”
What appeared before us 15 minutes later was a huge scrambled egg sandwich made on freshly baked bread and dripping with the creamy, local, sheep’s milk cheese. Our first meal on the Camino turned out to be a little piece of heaven on a plate. Together with aromatic and delicious coffee (for my friends) and hot chocolate (for me), we were ready to begin our walk.
We were pleasantly surprised when we came upon another inviting cafe bar just a few kilometers later. We quickly adapted to a rhythm of walking and stopping in these simple eateries to warm ourselves and enjoy a snack. Indeed, we often began discussing our next break long before one was needed.
Every so often, we would worry that perhaps there would be no more cafes, but then, as if by magic, one would appear as we rounded a corner or descended a hill. Over the two-day period, along with many cups of tea, coffee and hot chocolate, we enjoyed tortillas (similar to American omelets), octopus, mushrooms sautéed with garlic, local cheeses on homemade bread, fresh sardines, chorizo (Spanish sausage), local cured hams, freshly baked empanadas, and olives. Yes, walking was a joy when interspersed with Spanish tapas.
Looking back, I realize just how important a role good food played on this trip. I was able to happily endure driving rain, soaked feet, and chilly weather – as long as I was able to indulge in tasty snacks along the way.
Related posts:
Exploring the Camino de Compostela
Enjoy other food adventures at Wanderfood Wednesday.