Our guidebook, published in 2009, warns tourists to Myanmar, formerly Burma, not to initiate a discussion of politics with locals. This advice proved woefully out-of-date in a country where democracy is unfolding, and people are embracing the new openness that comes with it. One local proudly cast his arm toward photographs of Aung San Suu Kyi and her father hanging in a shop window and explained that their images have only been allowed in recent months.
Headlines during our recent trip stoked nationwide excitement about the transformation taking place in this long-isolated country. People were still discussing recent visits by Hilary Clinton and UK Foreign Minister William Hague, and we read in The Myanmar Times of the new session in parliament opening with “feisty stirrings of democracy,” and Suu Kyi making her first campaign trip to the southern part of the country in preparation for the upcoming April 1 election.
While these events have precipitated a boom in tourism to Myanmar – foreign visits were up 30% last year – it’s the country’s people and historical landmarks that leave a lasting impression. We began our journey in Yangon (formerly Rangoon) and then set off for the north, visiting Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake.
The most famous – and remarkable – sight in Yangon is the Shwedagon Pagoda, which has stood on the city’s highest hill for over 2,500 years. Rebuilt several times, our guide told us that the current structure dates from the 18th century.
Legend has it that this was always a holy place, but the large golden centerpiece, which is 326 feet high and has the equivalent of 66 metric tons of gold, was constructed to house eight strands of the Buddha’s hair, which he sent back to the city with two brothers. It also contains relics from the three previous Buddhas.
The golden dome is topped by a 76-carat diamond (too far away to be seen with the naked eye) and glitters in the sun before turning a lovely shade of reddish bronze as the sun sets behind it. Unfortunately, in the last few months, a few locals have collected funds to decorate the surrounding structures with colorful, blinking lights, but nevertheless the magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda remains awe-inspiring.
Photos: 1) Shwedagon Pagoda by night; 2) A shrine next to the Pagoda; 3) A pregnant woman applies gold leaf to the baby boy in hopes that it will bring her a male child; 4) The people in this photo are pouring cool water over the image of Buddha in hopes they will experience a similar sensation of coolness and peace; 5) Shwedagon by day.