I was pretty bummed when I heard that Harry Devert, an American riding a motorcycle to South America, disappeared while on his way to Zihuatanejo. Early reports were that he was in the state of Michoacan but now it’s possible he was taken in the state of Guerrero.
I don’t know Harry. And I hadn’t heard about his journey until reports started to emerge about his disappearance. But as a frequent traveler and as someone who has put herself in risky situations on occasion, I can relate to his story. I understand people with a wandering spirit and a longing for adventure.
And there’s the fact that I took a similar solo motorcycle journey through Central America in 1997.
His disappearance could have been me.
Despite my ride through the country and my countless trips to Cabo, Puerto Vallarta and even Mexico City, I still don’t feel that I know Mexico well. What I do know is that it’s frequently in the headlines with reports of drug and gang-related violence. These sorts of headlines generally don’t give me pause because I know it’s extremely rare that foreigners are targeted and that these incidences usually happen in areas that are known hotspots.
Is Mexico Safe?
As someone who isn’t tapped into Mexico very well, I started wondering what areas are safe for travelers? And would I do my motorcycle trip again given the country’s current state?
When I posted something on my Facebook page about Harry’s disappearance, several people reached out to let me know the area where he was traveling is considered a dangerous region but much of Mexico is safe and that this incident should not put one off on traveling to Mexico.
Tim Leffel of Perceptive Travel and Luxury Latin America currently lives in Mexico with his wife and daughter. He’s a guy who knows Mexico well so I asked him a few questions about where one would start if thinking about traveling there.
“Remember when reading warnings or sensationalist news stories that they are usually news because they’re rare. Few American travelers die in Mexico and half the time when they do it’s from doing something dumb like jumping off a hotel balcony into a pool. The cartels do not target tourists and it’s very rare that a tourist gets involved.” Tim adds, “Also, this is a huge country and just as Dallas isn’t Detroit and Nantucket isn’t New Orleans, the crime rate varies exponentially from trouble spots to calm spots.”
This advice makes great sense to me and it’s no different than what I tell people about traveling to India or Bangkok – which have both been in the headlines recently due to their own issues.
When I asked Tim about how the first time visitor to Mexico (or even a repeat visitor like me) would know where to find up to date information, he pointed me to the U.S. State Department website. He notes that they’ve gotten much better about breaking down the information even by parts of the state noting, “Mazatlan is fine, for instance, but the capital of that state is not.”
As I read through this website myself, I found it really difficult to parse out which areas the State Department suggested were completely off limits, which ones we are cautioned about visiting and which ones are actually safe. So I started to color in a map. Red being an area where only essential travel is recommended and yellow being travel with caution. Here’s the very crude map I ended up with:
There’s a lot of red and yellow, isn’t there?
In all fairness, the majority of tourist destinations are still safe: the Yucatan, Puerto Vallarta, Oaxaca and Cabo to name just a few. But as Tim pointed out, you might be safe in a place like Mazatlan, but don’t venture away from the safe zone. The same can be said of PV where you’re OK in the town itself, but you probably don’t want to take a bus to more remote areas– something I did during nearly all of my visits there over the past 20 years.
As for those big red splotches in the north, Tim said, “Most of that red part at the top is desert where nobody lives.” He adds, “You’re fine after the first 50 miles [inside the border] or so and never have anything to worry about between there and the capital.”
I get this, but I’d have to counter that the very resource with detailed info suggests no travel to these entire states.
I actually really love Mexico, the people, the food, and the language. And I’d be a fool to suggest you not travel there as there are plenty of areas where travel is safe.
But back to that question about whether I would do a motorcycle trip through Mexico today? No way. And I’d give serious thought to the type of travel I would do now. Even when I stay in a resort area, I’m busting to get out to see the “real” Mexico. I like to go to small towns, sit in the town square and visit with the people. I go to small markets meant for the locals. And I eat at restaurants where a buck will get me a plateful of rice, beans and tortillas.
Sadly, I don’t feel that sort of Mexico exists for me right now.
On another note – I have been fielding a lot of emails from people lately about their own concerns about traveling to Bangkok where protests have been going on for months. I know Bangkok pretty well and assure these folks that protestors don’t target tourists and the protests are in isolated parts of the city, usually well away from tourist areas.
I know that Bangkok is safe. But how to convey that to someone who isn’t as familiar with the city and the Thai people as I am? Well, all I can do is continue to answer their questions, assuring them with the words above. Just as Tim so kindly did for me about Mexico.
Also, I travel yearly to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. This city is often referred to as the most dangerous city in the world. I don’t feel safe there but can’t avoid it as it’s a jumping off point to far more interesting and safer parts of the country. I don’t go out at night. I never go out without a guide and driver. And my hotel is protected by armed guards and attack dogs. This may sound strange given this post, but I wouldn’t trade my visits to PNG for anything.
The bottom line is that where ever you go, be it Detroit, New York, Seattle, Bangkok or Zihuatanejo, you need to do your homework and know what you’re getting into.
Ultimately, we can talk ourselves out of or into whatever we want. For me, right now, I’m OK with Bangkok, India and Papua New Guinea, but I’ll stick with Hawaii for my warm weather fix :-).
Travel Well!
Leigh says
Yes, there is a lot of yellow and red, and I don’t know Mexico very well, but I do know plenty people who live there and seem to live happy comfortable lives.
I find anything drawn with too broad a brush tends toward the incorrect, but it’s easier to just say “Hey, avoid all of this area” than to be very specific based on local information.
As you say, Beth, there are no guarantees for absolute safety anywhere. Around the same time Harry disappeared, a woman disappeared in Texas near her home just after she’d returned from a round-the-world trip with her husband. It’s a strange and sad story, but ultimately, the best we can do is be smart, find the line between cautious and overly-cautious, and then keep traveling.
Tim L. says
Thanks for getting my input, but I really don’t think this reflects reality at all for the million+ foreigners living here. “This part of Mexico” exists for us EVERY DAY!
“Even when I stay in a resort area, I’m busting to get out to see the “real” Mexico. I like to go to small towns, sit in the town square and visit with the people. I go to small markets meant for the locals. And I eat at restaurants where a buck will get me a plateful of rice, beans and tortillas.
Sadly, I don’t feel that sort of Mexico exists for me right now.”
If I didn’t know you better, I’d say you’ve been watching too much Fox News. I feel far safer where I am now than any place I’ve lived in the USA the past couple decades. The stats support that too.
Beth Whitman says
I know, Tim. I’m having a hard time reconciling my own gut reaction to it as well.
As I said, I go to far more dangerous places in the world and can look past the warnings by reminding myself that if I’m vigilant, I’ll be safe.
It could very well have to do with my personal experience with having ridden safely through Mexico years ago. And there’s no way I’d feel safe doing that now. Even IF there is a safe route, why would I plan a trip where I’d have to dodge so many proverbial landmines (that being the cartel).
Rachel of Hippie in Heels says
Its good to do research before you travel and make your own opinion rather than follow state department guides. I have traveled in rural areas of mexico and I live in India and travel solo here all the time. The state department advises against solo female travel in India which is over exaggerating the danger of the country.
Cat of Sunshine and Siestas says
I appreciate this article, Beth, and it’s made me more calm about my trip to India next month. My family and partner and many friends are quick to jump to conclusions, but sometimes forget that I am not a newcomer when it comes to travel, and my style when I jet off is far different from my normal life. I only drink in places I feel comfortable and safe, only go out alone when I know the area.
As always, research, confidence and awareness are our best tools as travelers.
Matthew Hirtes says
Tim seems like a very trustworthy resource, Beth. It’s us locals you should rely on rather than guidebooks sourced from Google searches. The closest I’ve been to Mexico’s San Francisco. Yes, not that close. Recent news reports don’t stop me wanting to get a hell of a lot closer.
Val-Travel Scamming says
I have lived in Mexico for the last five months and feel safer here than anywhere else I’ve lived. Like you said, there are no guarantees anywhere, but it’s too bad the media hypes up the negative events and scare people away…
Beth Whitman says
Matthew – you’re right, Tim is a very trustworthy source and I respect his opinions.
My issue is that people who live in and travel regularly to Mexico say how safe they feel and that it’s just in certain areas where you have to be careful, but no one can provide a reliable resource for those of us who might want to visit.
The one resource, the US State Department site, seems to be too cautious according to people I’ve heard from but no one has an alternative.
I suspect there’s a blog post/website that could be written (by an expert, not me) that better addresses current issues on the ground.
donna morang says
I am an older white woman who lives alone, and I have lived in Zihuatanejo for several years. I have never had one scarey moment here. However, I have had a few nervous moments while visiting my daughter in Seattle. I don’t think I would post that Seattle is dangerous, nor should everyone avoid the state of Washington.
I am an ESL teacher who has traveled through Mexico,Central America, Colombia, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, and others so I feel a bit qualified to state my concern about traveling to Mexico.
This man on the motorcycle who is missing, and we have no idea as to what he was doing or who he was dealing with is certainly not a good reason to throw red flags on the entire country of Mexico.
Is Mexico Safe? Yes! If you aren’t stupid, buying drugs, soliciting young girls, living the wild life, or wearing fancy cameras or jewelry for all to see. This is not advised in any country you may visit.
Come on down and enjoy the beautiful little fishing village of Zihuatanejo, and see for yourself. You will be welcome with open arms by this charming little village.
Lillie - @WorldLillie says
Very interesting analysis.
Beth Whitman says
Donna – thanks so much for this. I’m glad you are enjoying yourself in Zihuatanejo.
I do, however, think it’s unfair to speculate on whether this motorcyclist was involved in something nefarious. By all accounts he was simply riding his bike through an area which, as it turns out, seems to be a hotspot for drug lords.
I am not throwing red flags at the entire country. I’m simply seeking answers and saying that I would not feel safe doing the same motorcycle trip through the country that I did in 1997.
I’ve had several people contact me who, like you, either live in or travel frequently in Mexico. Like you, they tell me how safe it is and say that one must use their best judgement. I’ve repeatedly asked these people for resources so we can all be better informed travelers. Other than the State Department site, which was the basis for my crude infographic, no one has gotten back to me with any additional resources that outline what areas of the country are safe and which ones to avoid.
And to repeat what I said earlier, I’m not suggesting people NOT go to Mexico.
When I travel anywhere, I want to be knowledgeable about the conditions and the responses I’ve received so far have only caused more confusion for me. I’m told there are lots of safe areas but no one is willing or able to direct me to resources. I can only assume this information is getting around by word of mouth. And that’s a problem for the would-be traveler who is far less connected than I am.
Mary @Green Global Travel says
We’re fans of Mexico and just like you said, you need to do your homework and know what you’re getting into. We love the Yucatan Peninsula.
Terry at Overnight New York says
A balanced and thoughtful analysis. I have great memories of my Mexican travels. That said, there’s a lot of red on that map.