Varanasi Luxury (it’s all relative)

From the relative quiet of Sarnath, I ventured on to Varanasi which sits along the Ganga River (Ganges). I shared an autorickshaw ride with two gals from Switzerland, Rachel and Simone, for the 30 minute ride. The three of us (!) sat in the two seater rickshaw, each of us with a stuffed backpack.

Simone and Rachel at our guest house in Sarnath

This is not so unusual in India (to cram as many people and items into the smallest area imaginable) but it would be unthinkable in the Western world where, for another dollar or two, we would enjoy our own rickshaw and actually be comfortable.

And speaking of comfort.

I went from my cold, drafty, uninsulated, hot bucket shower accomodation (which was also very hospitable) to luxury accommodations in Varanasi. I checked into a $3.50/night large room with private bath, power outlets so that I could charge my camera(s) and 24-hour hot water. Oh, and I had three beds in the room!

Obviously not meant for a single traveler, I snapped it up, passing up on the tiny, windowless single bed room offered to me for $2/night.

The double bed in my luxury suite.

The hot pink room that I thoroughly enjoyed.

Even though Varanasi is far busier than Sarnath, I slept like a baby. There were no loudspeakers blaring music all night and no drafts coming in from screen-covered windows.

Despite the comfort, after two days in Varanasi, I was ready to leave. While the ghats are fascinating at sunrise and sunset, I spent the days walking the alleys and streets. Ranking up there with the aggravation I experienced in Agra when Jon and I visited last year, beggars, lepers, sadhus (holy men), touts selling saris, weavings, incense, and rooms for rent as well as rickshaw drivers looking for their next far, all followed me, hassled me and simply tried to get my business.

The traffic, the honking horns, the smells, the colors, and the sounds are all exhilerating at first. Without a retreat, they can be maddening. I was actually looking forward to the 17 hour train ride from Varanasi to Siliguri and then the 2.5 hour ride to Darjeeling in the mountains. On the train, I knew I could sleep, watch the landscape, write, read, listen to my iPod and generally refuel for Calcutta.

This is not to say I didn’t enjoy Varanasi - I DID! But, I was ready for a little bit o’ peace and quiet.

Happy Travels!

You can also read about my India travels on my blog at the Seattle Post Intelligencer.

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