The range of responses that I get when I tell people that I’ve been to Vietnam 8 times is wide. Many people are jealous and state that they’ve dreamed about traveling to Southeast Asia. Others have a perplexed look on their face and tell me they would never go there (usually, and this is an understandable response, these are people who lived through or served in the military during the Vietnam War). And then there are people who are simply intrigued and ask a lot of questions about why I’ve been so taken by this part of the country.
With an upcoming women-only tour to Vietnam and Cambodia on the horizon in February, I’ve been receiving many inquiries along the lines of “Why Vietnam?” So I thought I’d address why I keep getting pulled back to this part of the world.
Strangely enough, Vietnam feels like a second home to me. That statement usually raises eyebrows. Me. A blond-haired, blue-eyed, fair-skinned American feeling at home in Vietnam? It’s true. From the moment I step off the plane, breath in the warm tropical air and zip off from the airport to my hotel, watching the rice fields roll by, I feel comfortable, settled and relaxed.
It was pretty much this way since I initially visited Vietnam in 1992. The government had just started issuing tourist visas and I was literally among the first foreigners to travel to the country after reuinification in 1975.
My visa, issued in Bangkok, was a piece of paper, not a stamp in my passport. As an American citizen, it was illegal at the time to travel to Vietnam (as it is with Cuba, today), so I didn’t want any record of my being there when I returned home.
I was able to get this one-month visa extended twice so my total time in-country was 3 months. And 3 months seemed to be the maximum time travelers were welcome. A couple of women I had met from the U.K. were kicked out of the country by the government sometime into their fourth month there. Their hotel rooms were raided in the middle of the night, their passports confiscated and they were escorted to the airport. The paranoid communist government suspected that these sweet twenty-something women who were simply teaching English, were in fact dissidents. Or perhaps influencing the locals in a way that the government didn’t approve of.
I left the country after 3 months, sensing that my presence likely wasn’t welcome for much longer than that.
But I wasn’t there to get to know the government. It was the people of Vietnam that so captured my heart and made me feel at home, a part of their family and like I needed to return again and again. In fact, it was the Vietnamese who often said to American travelers, “You are not your government. We are happy to have you here.”
Certainly there was a lot of desperation after the communists took over South Vietnam. Many South Vietnamese were stripped of their belongings, the men tossed in re-education camps and their wives and children left to fend for themselves. Even into the mid-90’s, men and women would approach me and beg for me to help get them out of the country as there were no opportunities for them as they were blacklisted from getting work.
The savvy ones started businesses. One of my closest friends during my 2 months in Saigon, was Kim. We were both in our early 20’s and were both eager to learn about each other‘s culture. She could speak English and French. She opened a café in the Pham Ngu Lao area (which is now THE area of Saigon that every traveler visits). She taught me Vietnamese and I taught her how to make macaroni and cheese. Her business exploded (not necessarily because of the mac and cheese!) and she continues to this day. And still to this day her family welcomes me with open arms each time I return and they treat me like a long lost daughter.
But this is not an unusual story. I have made many friends in Vietnam over the years, have stayed in touch with them and continue to be treated like a family member.
This is my story, but there are reasons why others find the country so irresistible:
The people. It’s not difficult to make connections with the Vietnamese, particularly in the South where they are more eager to connect with foreigners. Over all, the people are warm, gentle and easy to get to know. You’ll likely be welcomed into their homes and you might find yourself with a second “family.”
The landscape. Vietnam is not necessarily about “the sights.” There are no Disneyland-like complexes and few (in comparison to places like Thailand, let’s say) tourist sights. In Vietnam, you visit the markets or take a
boat ride along the Mekong or in Ha Long Bay to see how the locals live. You’re seeing real life.
Genuineness. At least for now, you won’t find a McDonald’s in Vietnam (though I did spot a KFC in Hanoi on my last trip). Starbucks hasn’t managed to penetrate this coffee-producing country either. So, you’ll see, for the most part, genuine Vietnam. Small independent and family-run shops and restaurants with few chain stores.
The food! Oh the food. It’s varied and the menus are long, utilizing fresh local ingredients. If you think you like pho in your neighborhood, just wait til you have the real deal.
Tourism is in its infancy. While the country has changed dramatically since my first visit in 1992, and much of this is due to the influx of tourist dollars, the country is still relatively young as a travel destination. At least for now, you don’t see hordes of international tourists.
Vietnam is very doable in terms of independent travel but we regularly offer trips to Vietnam, Cambodia and other parts of Southeast Asia through our sister company, WanderTours.
Travel Well,
Beth
Related links:
Hanoi’s Old Quarter – Photo of the Day
Vietnam Hats – Not Just Conicals
Vietnam & Cambodia Photo Gallery
Cornelius Aesop says
I’ve wanted to go to Vietnam for a while now, my friend always tells me great stories of his travels there. Plus if the food their is anything like his family restaurant then I’m sold for sure.
Carol White says
Beth –
I totally second everything you say. People should definitely have this country on their bucket list.We were just three weeks in Vietnam last year and it was probably my favorite place of all the places I’ve traveled to over the years. The people, the food, the scenery, and more. We loved it there. We even were traveling with guy who was there during the war and he found it amazing how much things had changed. Off to Africa this time next year!
Spencer says
I went to Vietnam in 2005 at the end of an 18 month journey trip around the world and to be honest I didn’t really like it as I was too tired to appreciate it and it was rainy season. I wouldn’t mind going back there again though as I hear nothing but good reports about the place.
Mary says
Definitely on my bucket list…for the food
Kathy says
I’m a 63 female and traveled SOLO – BY MYSELF thru Vietnam October/November 2010. Independent travel, no preplaned tours. Just moved about at will. Country, people, food, experience was wonderful. No proplems at all. Just a good time and met lots of very nice and friendly people. Note: You get invited to peoples homes if you are by yourself. Everybody should try it once in their life!
Beth Whitman says
Thanks for that ringing endorsement, Kathy!