The water boils. Hierve el agua. And indeed, the water bubbling up from the ground does appear to be boiling, though not from the heat of the day – though it certainly feels hot enough. The aptly-named springs in central Mexico, close to the colonial town and cultural center of Oaxaca, are gorgeous, set against the stunning backdrop of the Sierra Madre. Located atop a wide plateau and extending to the edge of a cliff, the springs themselves are shallow, leaving the rocks just wet enough to be treacherous.
It’s not only the springs that draw visitors, however, but the unique rock formations the water has sculpted. From a distance, they look like waterfalls tumbling over the edge of the plateau. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the falls are frozen, the “petrified waterfalls,” as they’ve also come to be known, made of rock.
These rock falls are unique, created by fresh water saturated with calcium carbonate bubbling up through the springs at the top of the mountain and then tumbling down the cliff’s rocky face, leaving a trail of minerals behind. The process is not dissimilar to the one responsible for the creation of stalactites. The mineral falls at Hierve el Agua are massive, created over thousands of years and rising close to three hundred feet from the valley floor. There are two unique rock falls. The larger supports two pools, while at the smaller though equally impressive falls, the original spring is still visible. Both are beautiful, though the trail between them is tricky.
The landscape surrounding the falls is harsh and impressive; dramatic, windswept mountains dotted with scraggly trees and cacti as far as the eye can see. The paths between the falls are rocky, overgrown, and in places, steep. The land is dry; dust settles everywhere. Lizards, birds, and flies seem to be the only life forms at home on the rocks.
And people, of course. There’s a small town close to the rocky falls, and villagers have made their way up the trails to swim in the two deeper, man-made pools above the springs. The water is cool in the afternoon heat, but a strange, murky blue. It smells faintly of sulfur, a reminder that the water is ancient, originating far beneath the earth’s surface.
I was almost six months pregnant during my visit to the falls, and much too shy to throw on a swim suit. I waited with the cameras in the shade while my handsome travel partner splashed around. In addition to the pools, a few small food and drink stands have sprung up around the falls, a by-product of the occasional sight-seer that braves the challenging roads to the mountain’s summit. There are bathrooms on site. A bus allegedly makes the trip from Oaxaca if it can gather enough passengers, but we found it much simpler to hire a car and driver for the nearly two hour journey. We were happy to be spared waiting for the bus’s return in the heat, especially since it has been known to strand its passengers.
Twenty-five hundred years ago, the Zapotec civilization was flourishing in these mountains. They established massive cities, created road systems, and pursued terrace farming. There are remnants of their presence at Hierve el agua, as well. It’s believed that they worshipped here. Historians have suggested that the Zapotec were drawn to the natural contrasts of the falls – water turning to stone – as well as the presence of the springs themselves. Listening to the water bubble up through the rocks high above the valley floor, I could be convinced that there were spirits here.
Let’s be fearless,
Jen