As is probably obvious from the subject matter of my latest posts, I recently returned from a truly amazing three week trip around Mexico. As I was preparing for the journey, researching festivals and salivating over pictures of tacos, I was struck again and again by the reaction of my friends and family when they discovered where I was headed.
Mexico has long been an attractive destination for American tourists, partly due to both its proximity and its close historic and cultural ties to the United States.. According to the US Department of State, approximately 150,000 Americans cross the border every day for a variety of reasons, business and pleasure included. Despite its popularity, however, Mexico is widely portrayed as a dangerous, lawless place run by corrupt politicians in league with drug cartels. In parts of the country, particularly near the US-Mexico border, that’s not far from the truth. Drug and gang-related violence is a very real concern for authorities on both sides, as well as travelers in the northern region. However, the media’s focus on this aspect of Mexican culture to the exclusion of all else has led to a series of misconceptions regarding how safely we can travel to the rest of the country.
Most of my close friends and relatives were surprised with my choice of vacation destination. How relaxing could a place that combined a high level of criminal activity with the usual risks of traveling in third world countries – corruption, disease, general inconvenience – be? When I mentioned my travel plans to my doctor, she told me travel to Mexico was fine, because “of course you won’t be leaving the resort.” I didn’t have the heart to tell her that we wouldn’t be going to any resorts. We’d be staying in hostels and traveling by bus, the same way we’d made our way across Uganda and into Rwanda the year before, nations with far worse track records than Mexico.
Mexico has an area of approximately 760,000 square miles divided into 31 states. It hosts numerous distinct ethnic groups and his home to 68 indinginous languages, in addition to being the largest Spanish speaking nation in the world. It has the world’s 10th largest economy and in 2010 was the 10th most visited country in the world. It is home to 32 designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites, making it first in the Americas and sixth in the world.
The bottom line is that Mexico’s geographic and cultural diversity is staggering. It’s a signficant regional player with a rich heritage whose history has profoundly influenced the development of Western civilization. Ruling out the nation as a whole as a travel destination due to the very real, but comparatively isolated security problems in the north and east does a disservice to both the traveler and the people of Mexico.
The best place to start if you are interested in traveling to Mexico, but concerned about your personal safety, is the US Department of State’s travel advisory website. As of this writing, there were no traveling warnings associated with tourist activity in most of the nation’s major tourist centers, to include Mexico City, the Yucatan, Quintana Roo (home of Cancun and Cozumel, among other beach destinations), and Oaxaca. For the states in which some caution was noted, the main concerns were criminal activity and drug violence. Avoiding Chichin Itza because of criminal activity in Juarez is like not visiting the Alamo because of riots at the White House; the distance, about 1900 miles, is the same.
For those of you considering a trip to Mexico, but discouraged by recent instability or criminal activity, here are a list of things that are no more dangerous in Mexico than anywhere else, as no destination is completely risk-free:
Tourist hot spots. Tourism is a significant part of Mexico’s economy, and the Mexican government at both the local and federal level has made the safety of its visitors a top priority. These efforts are most obvious at the major tourist destinations in Mexico, like Playa Norte in Cancun or Chichen Itza, both of which see bus loads of tourists arriving daily, and no real crime (and, some might argue, culture) to speak of. The Centro Historico, Mexico City’s tourist center, is characterized by cobble stone streets, wide boulevards, and pedestrian-only zones.
Truth be told, despite spending four days in Mexico City at the outset of my trip, I didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country until I traveled to the country’s interior. And even there, tourist destinations go out of their way to ensure the safety and comfort of their visitors. For example, Merida, a colonial city in the Yucatan and the jumping-off point for visitors interested in exploring Mayan influence in the region, is home to the nicest Starbucks I’ve ever seen.
There is literally a spiral staircase next to the pastry display case.
Public transportation. Mexico has an excellent bus system. It’s efficient, more reliable than buses I’ve taken in the United States, and connects all the major tourist and business destinations, and most of the minor ones. Bus stations are large, bright, clean, and safe. All have bathrooms, convenience stores, and allow you to check your luggage. Purchase tickets in advance at one of the numerous ticket offices located throughout most major cities, or at the stations themselves.
The metro. Mexico City’s metro system is vast, composed of 12 lines that carry 7.6 million passengers every day. It can be crowded, hot, and uncomfortable, with cars filled to capacity, but is equally efficient, fast, and inexpensive, particularly when compared to the cost of taking a taxi. Signs are not in English, but the system was originally designed with illiteracy in mind, with lines identified by a color and a number, and stations with both a name and a picture. Non-Spanish speakers can easily navigate the maps as well as the tunnels themselves.
A heavy police presence. An armed police officer on every corner can be disconcerting to the average traveler, especially those unfamiliar with the usual disposition of security forces in your typical Latin American police state. In Mexico City, these officers are meant to serve as a deterrent to violent crime, which has plagued the region for years. Though perhaps not the most professional of forces, the police officers in Mexico City are entirely uninterested in the activities of American tourists.
And, in the name of balanced journalism, here are a few things that travelers to Mexico should absolutely fear:
Public bathrooms. All public restrooms in Mexico, no matter how nice or expensive the establishment, lack two critical ingredients. The first is toilet paper, and the second is a toilet seat. Steal the toilet paper from your hotel if you plan on well, any activity that doesn’t take place inside your room, and make sure you haven’t been neglecting your squat thrusts. Every bathroom break will be an adventure.
School children. Speaking of bathrooms and adventures, no place is safe from the many adorable uniformed school children hoping to practice their English with you, even in the most private situations. I, for example, was accosted in the bathrooms outside some Mayan ruins by a group of middle school girls who insisted on taking pictures and video while I washed my hands and answered their conversational English questions. I am fine. Nice to meet you. How are you? They will not be discouraged or evaded.
Drinking the water. This is true of any third-world nation, but take extra care in Mexico. Brush your teeth with bottled water, and keep singing in the shower to a minimum. There’s no faster way to ruin a vacation than crippling dehydration brought on by a careless moment in the bath.
Dorilokos. In case you’re not familiar with the latest evolution in Mexican street food, Dorilokos is pretty much what it sounds like. You buy a bag of Doritos from a food cart, and the vendor opens the bag for you and fills it with a horrifying variety of toppings and condiments. These include, but are by no means limited to, hot sauce, salsa, peanuts, chopped onions, a variety of spices, strips of pig fat, lime juice, and gummy bears. It’s kind of like a gas station snack aisle in a bag, which is then gently crushed and handed to the unsuspecting tourist to spoon out and consume. Think this is an exaggeration? Check out this video:
Don’t worry. My handsome travel partner and street food connoisseur was only a little sick and has since made a full recovery.
Driving in Mexico City. Mexico City deserves its reputation as one of the worst places to drive in the world. The city is massive, roads are confusing and not well-marked, and traffic congestion, particularly during morning and evening rush hours, is off the charts. Don’t try going anywhere by vehicle until after 9 am. There are no discernible traffic laws or predictable traffic patterns in Mexico City and streets, including major thoroughfares, are often closed without warning. This, of course, is an addition to the masses of pedestrians, bicycles, scooters, food trucks, roller skaters, and stray animals also availing themselves of Mexico City’s network of roads.
Inspired to try your luck in Mexico, but interested in a few extra security measures? Check out this article for additional safety tips for the solo traveler.
Let’s be fearless,
Jen