Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub

by Shae Healey - The Flying Salmon
( August 10th, 2011 )

Spinnakers Gastro BrewpubIt’s been nearly three weeks since I ate at Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub in West Victoria B.C., and I’m still thinking about the restaurant on a daily basis.  Friends of mine might be quick to note, “But, Shae, you prefer Denali’s Moose Tracks ice cream specifically for the texture and taste of its cheap fudge.  Given your endearing fondness of bottom shelf edibles, how surprising is that you were wooed by a fine dining experience?”

Well, friends, first let me thank you for holding me to the highest standard of journalistic integrity.  Guilty as charged:  I am nothing short of a food floozy.  To continue with the Denali’s reference, I prefer to dine spoon to carton, standing in the kitchen…in my underwear…at late hours of the evening.  As neither a food critic nor a particularly classy eater, I often prefer a wide array of edible items thrown into a tortilla and encased with tupperware for a delicious meal-on-the-run.  To this you might think, “Well, great, throw this girl a tablecloth and a decently priced bottle of a wine, and she’ll have a five-star review written for you in the morning.”  Fair.  Mildly offensive, but fair.

Oyster Appetizer from SpinnakersNow, as much as I respect and understand the basis of this assumption, I beg to differ.  It is my allegiance to hole-in-the-wall diners and my affinity for low-priced, funky food that makes a woman like me so hard to impress when it comes to upscale restaurants.  I would rather be at a picnic, flicking ants from my mason jar, than listen to an excellent-looking server describe the first course in a  manner that lasts twice the amount of time that it will take me to actually clear my plate.  So, you see, the wind was not at Spinnakers back that fateful July evening.  The menu was called a “feature sheet” and there were, indeed, several courses which included items like “nostrala gnudi” and “foraged plum and ale marmalade scented with tcho chocolate’s cocoa nibs.”  How these “nibs” were going to compare to my beloved fudge chunks, I wasn’t sure.

But as the courses came, I learned a little bit more about this fancy restaurant on the hill.  Spinnakers is committed to fresh local ingredients with a “farm to table” philosophy – a concept strikingly similar to my own “hand to mouth” preference.  They handcraft their own ales, and many of the herbs used in the dishes are picked from the restaurant’s garden.  View from Spinnakers Gastro BrewpubThe food was so delicious that, at several points in the evening, I subconsciously closed my eyes to block out all other senses, and then forced them open again so as not to miss a glance at the gorgeous view of Victoria’s inner harbour.  Now that’s a predicament I want to be in.  The servers were unbelievably friendly and down-to-earth.  They even passed up the opportunity to scoff or patronize when I asked them how I was supposed to go about eating a raw oyster without embarrassing myself.  I would have invited them to my picnic any day!

The wine and beer pairings were delicious additions rather than unnecessary accessories.  I was comfortable enough to order the Chef’s Table feature, for crying out loud – a true testament to the comfortable and inviting atmosphere that Spinnakers provides.  There were no upturned noses, and while the food was entirely worth the money, I was also happy to be spending twelve gallons worth of Denali’s on a single meal provided by a restaurant that is truly invested in making  sustainable, healthy food an experience worth – in my case – sitting down and putting on pants for.  So, please, during your next trip to Victoria, be sure to visit Spinnakers.  It will truly be a meal to remember and, if you’re lucky, repeat on a regular basis.

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Victorious [BC]

by Shae Healey - The Flying Salmon
( July 25th, 2011 )

Tourism Victoria“Victoria, British Columbia: Full of Life” is registered as a trademark of the Greater Victoria Visitors & Convention Bureau.  This sparkling phrase is used to promote, market, and foster travel and tourism in the greater Victoria and Vancouver Island area.  It was also the first piece of text to appear – bright and full of color – at the top of the itinerary that Tourism Victoria created for my recent trip to Vancouver Island.

“Full of life” is an incredibly imaginative and open-ended description that implies vitality and positivity.  It makes me think of a wrinkled grandmother with a sneaky smile and a temporary tattoo shellacked on her upper arm.  It’s also a phrase that can put a revitalizing spin on an otherwise undesirable object like a feculent kitchen sponge or a beloved t-shirt with hardened armpit stains.  When referring to a city, the term “full of life” leaves a similar amount of wiggle room.  I arrived in Victoria wondering if the city’s catch phrase would prove to be more than a cute costume for an otherwise average tourist destination.   But after an extended weekend in Victoria,  I couldn’t have picked a more accurate sentiment to describe my experience in the vibrant capital city of British Columbia.

Victoria BCIf I were to stand on Wharf Street and spin around in a circle with my eyes closed and my arm outstretched, there is no place in Victoria that I would not want my index finger to land.  With the Olympic Mountains to the south and the Juan de Fuca Strait wrapping around the coastline, Victoria is no slouch in the nature department.  The water glistens with a come-hither shimmer and the city’s recreation-based companies offer every thinkable activity to enjoy the outdoors.  Ocean River Sports specializes in paddle rentals including year-round single and tandem kayak trips from Victoria’s upper harbour.  Cycle BC offers two-wheel adventures via bicycle or scooter, and Prince of Whales – the premiere whale watching company in Victoria – will travel as far as the San Juan Islands in search of Orcas.  If you’re tight on money, Victoria West, a neighborhood located just over the Johnson Street Bridge, has several miles of waterside pathways with an unbeatable view of downtown Victoria.  The Inner Harbour – home to the Parliament Buildings and the iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel - provides a perfect spot to catch the sunset, watch and listen to street performers, and get a glimpse of water traffic weaving in and out of the city.

When I think of the things that make my life full – nature, music, adventures, and opportunity – Victoria answers with both palms extended.  It will be my pleasure over the next few weeks to describe a few of Victoria’s epic highlights.  Stay tuned for a sampling of suggested restaurants, scooter routes, and sneak peaks into the lives of Victoria’s resident whales.

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Make Friends with the Lone Fir

by Shae Healey - The Flying Salmon
( July 18th, 2011 )

James and Elizabeth Stephens Lone FirI don’t plan to be buried, but with only a quarter of a century under my belt I understand that this postmortem view may one day change.  I’ve always had a strong affinity for cemeteries.  Much, if not all, of this morbid affection comes from my current (and preferred) role as a living participant in the graveyard game.  I read the names, calculate the dates, and weave a story out of the size, shape, and design of the headstone that a former living and breathing individual chose for the very purpose of being remembered.  Eastern Europeans – most often Russians – usually include a sketch or a photograph of themselves on the grave in order to help guide this very process of imagining.

My favorite tombstone accessory is the bench.  To me, the inclusion of a graveside seat is a gesture of irreversible boldness, an open-ended invitation for any human being to share the only remaining space in the world that the deceased still occupies.  It takes the unpredictability of a blind date, an elevator ride, a bus stop bench, to an entirely different level.  All the living knows of the dead is that s/he was once alive.   And, somehow, in some ethereal and cosmic way, the dynamic between what is and what was affords some sort of unnameable closeness between the dead and the conscious stranger who chose to sit down and think about the possibility of a life once lived.

I could go on and on about what I consider to be the unique wonder of the cemetery.  But, for everyone’s benefit, I will cut the musings short and recommend a more tangible experience:  the Lone Fir Cemetery tour at 10am on the first Saturday of every month in Portland, Oregon.  Meet in the center of the cemetery at the soldiers’ monument, wander around 30.5 acres of trees and tombstones with a couple dozen curious quirky folks, and listen to historical facts and stories narrated by a volunteer of Friends of Lone Fir Cemetery.  From the first burial in 1846 to the current memorial initiatives for nineteenth century Chinese workers and asylum patients, the history of a city and its people comes to life.

While Lone Fir is home to over 25,000 graves, the cemetery’s website lists the name, location, and background of its “100 Notable Residents.”  Visit Asa Lovejoy, the founder of the Rose City who lost the coin toss responsible for naming Portland (Block 8M/Lot 50/2N).  Stop at the tombstone of Emma Merlotin (Block 20/Lot 18/2S), a murdered prostitute whose eyes were removed for a forensic investigation intended to unearth the image of her killer.  Consider the 200+ patients of Dr. J.C. Hawthorne, founder of the Oregon Hospital for the Insane, whose wooden markers have long since deteriorated.  Maybe even sneak a drink with James Frush, the 1st Street Salon keeper whose tombstone boasts an urn that was once used to make toasts at his beloved bar on Christmas day (Block 2/Lot 16/3S).  Or, at the suggestion of Lone Fir volunteers, have a little picnic on cemetery grounds.

More than 150 years ago, there was one tree at the Lone Fir Cemetery.  Today, there are over 600 – each planted on a grave in remembrance of a loved one and now home to over 65 bird species.  There’s so much life at Lone Fir.  I encourage you to go out and learn it.

Photo Image by Pete Forsyth via Wikipedia.  Tombstone featured: James and Elizabeth Stephens, donors of the land for Lone Fir.

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