Excerpts from Europe: “The Blue Dragonflies of Krka National Park”

After my beautiful, yet rainy, day at Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia, I felt like I wanted another day with nature. So I ventured to another National Park, Krka. Whereas in Plitvice, I was serenaded by sounds of frogs, at Krka, I was taken with the brilliance of the blue dragonflies.

Wednesday, June 9, 2004:
Today started out at the Croatian house in Sibenik that I was staying in, where the owner made me breakfast. Coffee and pancakes. I can’t remember the Croatian word for the pancake, but she told me she made them out of water, milk, and the yellow of eggs. Maybe she said flour, too. I put marmalade on them, and enjoyed a nice homemade meal.

After breakfast, I went to the bus station where I caught a bus to Krka National Park. I first stopped, however, at the Franciscan Church in Sibenik. (Once again, another church, as I like to do a lot during my travels.) No one was inside, so it was peaceful. A good way to start the day. The sun was also out, unlike my rainy day in Plitvice, so even a better start for the day.

I hopped on a bus to Skradin, the town right near Krka. The real entrance to Krka, however, was via a short boat ride from Skradin. My main goal for today was to take a second boat to a Franciscan monastery that dates from 1576, which was located on an island in the middle of a lake in Krka.

When I got to the Krka ticket office, I paid for my way into to the park. I was told, though, that I needed to buy the ticket for the boat to the monastery at a different place, where they would assign an allotted departure time, which turned out to be 2pm.

I had a several hours to enjoy before the boat to the monastery, so I strolled along the main boardwalk around the waterfalls of Krka. There were fewer paths here than at Plitvice, so I actually had time to walk around them twice, including snack breaks. It was quite scenic, all the water and trees.

At 2pm, I boarded the three-and-a-half hour boat tour, which actually made a couple of stops. The first stop was the monastery on Visovac Island. I believe that they said this island is only 100 by 150 meters (328 by 492 feet). Quite small. There were very colorful flower gardens, and a circle of cypress trees, surrounding the monastery. There was also a church, and a museum which contained interesting displays of both religious art and African art.

The second stop on the boat tour was to a waterfall. The lakes between the waterfalls at Krka were much larger than the lakes at Plitvice. (More comparisons later.) We got an hour at this stop (we had a half hour at the monastery), where I just took off and went for a walk by myself. I found a road following some streams and meandered for a while.

It was here that I saw the blue dragonflies. Intriguing iridescent blue dragonflies. They were very pretty to watch as they fluttered around, and I spent some time just looking at them.

I continued walking up and down the road, enjoying the waterfalls and the streams, and then made my way back to the boat. After the tour, I took the boat from the entrance of Krka to Skradin, and made my way back to Sibenik.

Between Plitvice and Krka, I would say that Plitvice, even in the rain, was more impressive in some ways, but Krka was more impressive in other ways. Plitvice had a lot more waterfalls with smaller lakes, whereas there were fewer waterfalls in Krka, but the lakes were larger. There were definitely more trails and paths in Plitvice, as I explored there for hours on end. But Krka had the quaint and peaceful monastery on an island.

Between the two national parks, I felt like I really got some good outdoor and nature experiences, and a sense of the beauty of Croatia.

Sweet Travels!

Countless waterfalls that inter-connect 16 colorful lakes, all surrounded by lush forest, and unique flora and fauna. A place like no other on this planet. This is Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. Five miles of trails and wooden paths took me and my friend Susan on a day-long journey with nature.

Saturday, June 5, 2004:
We awoke this morning about 8:30, after a good night’s sleep in the zimmer, a private room in someone’s home, in Grabovac, Croatia, a town just outside of Plitvice Lakes National Park. The zimmer was right across the street from where the bus dropped us off last night. We didn’t even have a reservation here, but we got this great room, with a shower down the hall, all for the price of a bed in a hostel. Actually, we got pretty lucky in getting this room at all because all the hotels in the town were already full for this weekend, due to a marathon, of all things. And there are no hostels in this town, my usual night’s place to rest.

We had just enough time to get ready for our 9:00 breakfast, included in the price of our room. Hard boiled eggs, bread, cheese, salami, yogurt. A traditional Croatian, even European meal. What was even better, also included in our price, is that the daughter of the owner of the zimmer would drive us to the entrance of Plitvice Park.

As we were driving, however, we got stopped by “traffic.” This turned out to be the Plitvice Marathon. The one that all the hotels were booked up for. 49 kilometers, 26 miles, through this area. What a beautiful area to run in, with lots of trees surrounding. We had to wait for about 500 runners to go on the main road that we were on and turn up hill to a smaller road. A half an hour probably passed, but that was just fine. I mean, how many times in one’s life, would one witness a Croatian marathon?

We arrived at the entrance to the park, bought our tickets, and got maps of the area in the souvenir shop.

It was raining today. At first, I was a bit disappointed, but as it turned out, it didn’t matter at all. In the Croatian rain, and fog, Susan and I walked around Plitvice for seven hours. It was extremely beautiful. Lakes and waterfalls and more lakes and more waterfalls. Countless waterfalls. Blues, greens, azures, turquoises. Plants and trees and more plants and trees. And some wildflowers. It was great to get back in touch with nature.

The sound of Croatian frogs accompanied us during our day. We saw a few of them, but mostly heard them. This was very cool to listen to as we walked around.

We explored just about every path and wooden walkway that we could, except for one long one around the furthest lake. There were two sets of lakes, the Upper, and the Lower. To get from the Lower Lakes to the Upper Lakes, we took a little boat ride across one of the lakes.

I found out that “slap” is the Croatian word for waterfall, and “jezera” is the Croatian word for lake.

After our walk, we went to the main town of Plitvice, just to say we’ve been there. I bought some postcards in one of the hotels. We then went to a restaurant for dinner by the entrance of the park. But not before I crossed the finish line of the marathon. Yeah, me! (Ya, right…) Actually we just happened to walk by it, so there is a photo of me “crossing” the finish line.

For dinner I had a salad and potatoes “baked on a bell.” Not sure what that was exactly, but they were good potatoes. As we were eating, festivities occurred. First we were “serenaded” by a group of people singing Croatian songs. My guess is they were joyous marathon runners. Next a band came over to play – an accordion, a cello, a guitar, and a ukulele. Croatian music, with a bit of “Oh Susanna” mixed in.

Then the group singing joined in with the band, and they all started singing together. A waltz was played, and people danced.

After dinner, Susan and I were picked up by the owner of the zimmer. I took a nice warm shower, and now I am writing a bit in my journal. I think I will try to figure out where to travel to next in Croatia. But really, I might just be too tired to decide tonight.

Sweet Travels!

Train strikes can occur in Italy. One happened when I was there, but fortunately, it didn’t mess up my travel plans too much. I just decided to change my schedule to accommodate the strike.

Another time, however, a mere 20-minute delay in one train caused me to miss my next train, and thus I literally had to spend the night in a tiny office of an Italian train station. Something that most tourists probably don’t get to do, and most likely, aren’t really allowed to do.

Here are my journal entries as I stayed up one night in the tiny train office…

Tuesday July 27, 2004 – 11:00pm:
I’m sitting here in a Trenitalia office in Falconara at 11pm. I missed my train connection because my previous train was 20 minutes late. Only 20 minutes, but that was all it took!

I was originally coming from Padova, had a connecting train in Bologna, and then I was supposed to have another connecting train here in Falconara. From here, I am supposed to be on my way to Fabriano, and my ultimate destination, Genga.

An Italian Train

The mishap began in Bologna, where the train left 15 minutes late. I was expecting that the train would make up time somehow, but alas it lost five more minutes while en route. I read a bit on the train, looked out the window, and saw a couple of gorgeous sunflower fields, still hoping that somehow I would make my connection in Falconara.

But the train did arrive 20 minutes late, and I knew that I had missed my next train. I looked at the train schedules on the wall, and it looked like the next train to Fabriano would not be till 3:46am! Was I reading that right? What would I do? At first, I really did not know what to do. It was after 10pm. This was the first time that something like this happened to me.

I actually stood around for a while thinking, or not thinking, or trying to think. I guess I was a bit shaken up, but not too bad. I felt like it was too dark and too late for me to wander around trying to find a hostel or some place to stay. I suppose I could just stay right where I was in the train station for several hours, but it was a bit cool outside, and I would have preferred to stay warm.

I finally asked a train station attendant about the train schedules to confirm what I saw on the wall. He agreed that my next train to Fabriano would not be till 3:46am.

Italian Train Tickets

After a bit of pondering again, I noticed that there was a train station office, thinking that would be a nice option to stay in. I actually got up the nerve to ask the attendant if I could please wait in the office. He spoke English well enough that I could explain to him my dilemma and he understood…and so here I am!

Wednesday July 28, 2004 – 12:45am:
It is now12:45am on Wednesday, and I am still in the Falconara train station office waiting for my train, in three more hours and one minute. I feel like I’m in a zone of some sort. I haven’t slept yet, and I don’t feel like sleeping, but I’m not quite sure that I am actually here, writing in my journal to pass the time. Seems very strange. I mean, I know I’m here, but I guess when you don’t sleep much, and feel a bit out of sorts, then it feels surreal.

The gentleman who allowed me to stay in the train station office went home a while ago, so two other kind gentlemen who work in this office are keeping me company. Or am I keeping them company? They are working, as I am writing in my journal, catching up on a few days’ events. These two men even set up a little bed for me to sleep on.

Wednesday July 28, 2004 – 1:40am:
The two gentlemen have been very nice. In between my journal writing, with their little English, and my little Italian, we actually have communicated some. We have shared about each others jobs; they have been interested in my journal writing; I told them I took an Italian language class before I began my Europe travels; we talked a bit about the U.S. and a little about politics; and I told them of some the places I’ve been during my travels thus far in Europe. They asked if I had any children, etc.

An Important Italian Train Sign

Wednesday July 28, 2004 – 3:26am:
In 20 minutes my train from Falconara will take me to Fabriano. I did finally lie down on the bed that the gentlemen made for me in their office and slept for just over an hour. Better than nothing. The bed was really a cushioned board that they had hidden behind some cabinets, which they put across the seats of two chairs. There was some cushioned thing for a pillow. And they gave me some paper towels to put on top of this pillow for protection. Pretty funny actually. But thoughtful. They must sleep here when it gets late for them. So can you say that you slept in a Trenitalia office? I can.

Wednesday July 28, 2004 – 4:45am:
Ok – It is now 4:45am, I made it to Fabriano, and in 20 minutes the next train will take me to Genga.

Another Italian Train

Wednesday July 28, 2004 – Later That Evening:
I got to Genga at about 5:30 this morning. I took a really nice crisp, brisk walk from the train station to Kelly’s house, with the sun starting to brighten the day, and the birds chirping. It was a good way to start the morning. Well, continue my morning, really.

But being awake didn’t last long. Shortly after I arrived at Kelly’s, I fell asleep. I slept till about 9:30am.

I am grateful for the gentlemen in the Falconara train station. Their hospitality made my 20-minute late-train mishap not so bad at all!

Sweet Travels!