Cambodia, a journey measured in smiles not miles

One of the things I love about staying at Ganesha Resort, deep in the heart of rural Cambodia is the opportunity to sink into the landscape, to have the time to journey into the heart of a place.

This for me is what travel is about, a philosophy shared by Dirk, the owner of Ganesha, a guy who has traveled for a large part of his adult life and rarely lived in his home country of Germany since he hit the road. He has spent time in countries like India and Nepal as well as Ireland but his heart is now attached to the verdant green fields of Cambodia where he has made his home. He wanted to make a place where travelers rather than tourists would come to spend time discovering the absolute joy of travel which is measuring journeys in smiles rather than miles.He couldn’t have picked a more magical spot than the place where Ganesha Resort came into being.  I am currently addicted to taking strolls around the villages and roads and fields of this village simply because of the charge of joy that comes to me by way of rainbow smiles and the open friendly greetings of the neighbours. Going for a walk to nowhere in particular, before long my feet are floating an inch above the ground and my heart is full of the joy of love of brotherhood.

“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it.” (Norman Mclean)

Dateline: Kampot, Cambodia. Another sultry day in November. Working in my office with this for a view, I consider how the hardships of life on the road balance against moments like these..a jungly riverside, sweet scented breezes and the busy silence of nature at work.

The owner of the resort where I am parked wanders by with a bottle of fuel. “Going to take the boat out if you want to come for a ride,” he says.

Boat ride on the river quiet

Slick slippery boys

and swimming cows.

Khmer kids kayaking

The mirrored world of nature reflecting her beauty back at herself

God’s favourite colour green in every mutable shade…

Sunset witnessed in silence

The freeonline dictionary has this definition of the word ‘amok’ n “a state of murderous frenzy, originally observed among Malays”. There has to be a story behind the use of that word especially within the context of it being racially applied. More than likely some Britisher was interrupted during a meal of Amok by a riot somewhere in Malaysia and the resultant telegrams got all muddled up. Possibly the guy meant to say Amok off the menu, due to Malays rioting. Amok has to be one of my favourite words. For some reason the word has always appealed to me, one day I will use it with full poetic license and see where that gets me.

Anyway, say the word Amok here and you wont get a one way ride to the funny farm but a delicious mix of herbs and spices, coconut cream and fish all steamed in a banana leaf parcel. Something like palusami from the Pacific Islands but fishier.

Amok Trei

Serves 4

Ingredients

•1 Garlic Clove, chopped

•1 Red Onion, chopped

•5cm/2-inches fresh Root Galangal, chopped or 1/2 teasp Ground Galangal

•2 tbsp chopped Lemon Grass or 2 teasp Ground Lemon Grass

•½ teasp Ground Turmeric

•1 teasp Paprika

•2 tbsp Fish Sauce

•1 tbsp Sugar

•½ teasp salt

•1×400g/14oz tin Coconut Milk

•450g/1lb White Fish Fillets, e.g. (Catfish, Sole, Orange Roughy)

•4-8 Banana leaves (depending on size) or or 8 large Dark Green Cabbage Leaves

Directions

1. Place the garlic, onion, galangal, lemon grass, turmeric, paprika, fish sauce and sugar in a blender or food processor and process until well blended.

2. Add the coconut milk and process again until thoroughly mixed.

3. Transfer the coconut mixture to a medium saucepan and bring to simmering point, stirring. Continue to cook gently for about 10 minutes until thickened.

4. Meanwhile, if using cabbage greens, place them in a large saucepan, cover with boiling water and set aside to soften. If using banana leaves, cut into pieces about 20cm/8-inches square.

5. Place the fish in a bowl, season with a little salt then pour over half the hot coconut sauce and mix well. Set the remaining sauce aside.

6. Place 1/8th of the fish mixture in the centre of each leaf and fold the edges over to form secure parcels, making sure you tuck the edges under.

7. Steam the parcels for 1 hour.

8. 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, gently reheat the remaining sauce.

9. To serve – make a small opening down the centre of each parcel and spoon the remaining coconut sauce into the opening. Serve immediately with rice.

Image courtesy of Spicegasm, Recipe via Asia Recipe dot com