Lovely Laksa (Singapore and Malaysia)

One of the most famous and popular dishes in Singapore is laksa, a thick, creamy, and utterly delicious curry soup.  Since moving here, I have learned that laksa has roots beyond Singapore.  On a trip to Melaka earlier this year, a local informed me that Malaysians also claim this dish as their own.  Indeed, he told me that each state boasts its own unique version.  Some, this restaurateur bragged, were so hot and spicy, that only the most seasoned palates  could endure – and enjoy – them.  I was intrigued.

That laksa is as popular in Malaysia as it is in Singapore was not a surprise. After all, it is part of a cuisine known as “Paranakan.”  Peranakan (pronounced “Per-AN-uh-ken”) refers to descendants of early Chinese settlers, who traveled to Singapore and parts of the Malay Peninsula, especially Melaka and Penang, and intermarried with local women.  The resulting cuisine is a wonderful blend of Chinese and Malay cooking.  Laksa is a perfect – and delicious – illustration of what combining these two great cooking traditions can produce.

I first discovered and fell in love with the rich flavors of laksa while living in Hong Kong.  At that time, I was completelyignorant of its colorful history; I only recognized it as a good bowl of noodles.   Since then, I’ve learned that the Singapore version of this soup is known for the creamy coconut milk added to the curry broth, as well as the tofu puffs, shrimp and pork (or chicken).  It is topped with a spoonful of crushed curry leaves and sambal chili paste.

Earlier this year while on a vacation in Seattle, my friend, Luanne, who had read another post on Singapore laksa, invited me to help her make it from a recipe she found on the Internet.  Though she had never tasted this traditional dish, she managed to find all the necessary ingredients at the local Asian groceries.  She even pounded fresh tamarind into the requisite paste.   The result was impressive.  Luanne was able captured the complex mix of flavors well, though the soup was a bit light on spice.  Laksa is best when it has a kick.

I had the pleasure of trying the Penang version last weekend.  Within an hour or two of our arrival on this historic Malay island, I had a fresh bowl of laksa before me.  I was surprised at the difference in flavors from that in Singapore, though it was clear the soups bore similar roots.  The Penang laksa is best described as a sour, fish stew.  Yes, it had the familiar rice noodles, but the predominant taste was of tamarind and fish sauce.   I enjoyed the large chunks of mackerel and fresh herbs on top, but the pungent mix of fish sauce and tamarind (if you didn’t get enough in the soup itself) that came on the side was too much for me, and after giving it a quick taste, I set it aside.

I had never thought of travelling to each of the Malay states, but my curiosity has been piqued, and a laksa tour may be in my future.  I’m certain it would be well worth the effort.

Photos, in order: Singapore laksa; Luanne making laksa; Luanne’s laksa; and Penang laksa.

Laksa is easy to find in Singapore, but if you want to go to one of the restaurants that claims it originated this local dish, try here.

For other food adventures, visit Wanderfood Wednesday.

Singapore is an expensive place to live.  According to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s 2011 World Cost of Living Survey, our little slice of paradise is the tenth most costly city in the world, but don’t panic. Despite this alarming news, there are a surprising number of things to do here that won’t break the bank. Here are 17 inexpensive or free things my family and others have discovered and enjoyed in Singapore.

A stroll in the verdant Botanic Garden (www.sbg.org.sg) is one of Singapore’s highlights. The wealth of outdoor sculpture art adds to its appeal, and while bikes are prohibited, scooters are not and provide a fun way for kids to visit the park. If you love music, check the schedule for free concerts.  The breathtaking Orchid Garden is also worth a visit and has an admission cost of $5 for adults and $1 for students, children and seniors.  Kids under 12 are free.

The park’s Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden provides a wonderful learning environment for youngsters under 12.  The Fantastic Forest includes a tree house and logs for climbing, while the small water park makes a great way to cool off in the heat.

Singapore’s wet markets offer a window into how different cultures live.  We like the Tekka Market (Block 665, Buffalo Road), located in Little India.  Here you’ll find a hawker center and produce market on the first floor and an array of colorful saris n the second.

While you’re in the neighborhood, cross the street and visit the Little India Arcade (48 Serangoon Road).  You can have a henna treatment for your hand at Selvie’s starting at $3 or a bundle of bangles at Jayram’s Creation (also from $3).

For a cultural experience of a different kind, visit one of the country’s historic churches, temples or mosques.  One of my favorites is the Sultan Mosque (www.sultanmosque.org.sg).  Upon entering, you will find a display aimed to educate non-Muslim’s on Islam, Allah and topics related to Muslim women.

The oldest church in town is the Armenian Church of St. Gregory the Illuminator (armeniansinasia.org).  Built in 1835, this lovely little church is well situated in a large grassy garden.  There’s plenty of open space to explore – including some old tombstones – once you’ve admired the interior of this historic monument.

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum (www.btrts.org.sg) in Chinatown dazzles the eye with its festive lights and bright red and gold colors.  Come here to catch a glimpse of Buddha’s tooth and if you are lucky, monks chanting the Sarangama Sutra.

If you prefer nature, visit the Sungae Bulloh Wet Land Reserve (www.sbwr.org.sg).  Admission is free except on weekends and public and school holidays when there is a $1 entrance fee for adults and $.50 for children.  Here you may enjoy walks of various lengths and see monitor lizards, mudskippers, and crab.

On a rainy day in Singapore, I recommend cozying up to a book at Kinokuniya Book Store (www.kinokuniya.com/sg), which occupies 43,000 square feet and has 500,000 titles available in English, Japanese, Chinese, French and German.  The store has a wonderful children’s section and welcomes adults and little ones to sit, relax, and read their favorite books.

A favorite weekend activity for many in Singapore is riding bikes at East Coast Park. Rentals are also available for exploring the 12-kilometer bike path that runs along the beach.

Another option is the Tree Top Walk at MacRitchie Reservoir Park. Choose from a variety of hikes, which take you across a 250m-suspension bridge and provide a unique perspective of the forest canopy.

Jeanne Gunsolus, mother of twin girls, says the best deal in town is Jurong East Swimming Complex (www.singaporeswimming.com/pools/), where admission is $2.00 per adult and $1.00 for children on weekends.  A tube for use on the water rides costs an additional $2 each.

If you are looking for playgrounds, Kathleen Borsh and her six-year-old daughter, Dana, prefer West Coast Park.  They like the wide-open spaces, which provide a welcome respite from Singapore’s urban center. Georgina Bach, mother of 3, says Pasir Ris Park offers the best and biggest playground she has seen in Singapore.  She also appreciates the park’s wide array of other activities, which include ponies, mangrove forests, and bike rentals.

Finally, an afternoon stroll along the Singapore River is always nice, and children can bring their bikes and scooters while enjoying the city’s colonial architecture. Merlion Park makes a good destination, and if you need a break, duck into the nearby Coffee Bean for hot chocolate.  From the outdoor seating area, you can enjoy the best view in town of the Marina Bay Sands.

All parks mentioned can be found at www.nparks.gov.sg.  If you have free or inexpensive activities your family enjoys, I would love to hear from you at ekkain@yahoo.com.

I first visited Spain with my father when I was 11.  One of my most vivid memories of the trip was of the thick, creamy hot chocolate served to me one morning at our hotel in Madrid.  Initially, the taste was so foreign that my immature palate rejected it.  I couldn’t reconcile this rich, syrupy drink with the watery Swiss Miss (with mini marshmallows) to which I was accustomed.  Soon, however, I came to my senses, and looked forward to breakfast and my creamy chocolate brew.

Years later, when I returned to Spain as a non-coffee drinking adult with my soon-to-be husband, I made it my mission to try hot chocolate in every town we visited.   Each cup seemed better than the last, and I came to equate Spain with this luscious drink, so thick, you could eat it with a spoon.  Really, it would be more appropriate to classify Spanish hot chocolate as a dessert, rather than a breakfast beverage, but chocolate lovers could never stand the deprivation in the morning.  We must have our chocolate to start the day.

On my most recent trip to Spain, however, it was not to be.  I was hugely disappointed when orders for hot chocolate were answered with the powdered  Cola Koa, which proved to be a unfair substitution. Finally, after a week in the country, we reached Santiago de Compostela, where I noticed a machine churning chocolate in one of the bars.  Could it be?  I finally received the chocolate of which I held such fond memories, but the true prize was still to come.

Back in Madrid, my friend, Molly, took me to the most famous chocolate shop in town: Chocolateria San Gines, which originallyopened its doors in 1894.  Here you may find the best cup of chocolate in town, served with three fresh churros on the side for dipping.  The moment I had waited for had arrived.

You too can try the Chocolateria San Gines.  Here’s the address and telephone number if you find yourself in Madrid:

Pasadizo de San Gines, 5, Madrid 28013, Tel. +34 91 365 6546

I am already looking forward to my next cup, whenever that may be.

For other food adventures, visit Wanderfood Wednesday.