Photos (above) 1) Devotee with pierced forehead and mouth; 2) carrying kavadi supported by more than 100 spikes into his upper body.  (below) 3) having his tongue pierced; 4) carrying a milk jug on head; 5) putting a spike into a man’s back; and 6) removing a spike from a man’s tongue.

Yesterday, Erik and I attended Thaipusam, an important festival for the Tamil-speaking Hindu community in Singapore.  “Thai” is the first month of the Tamil calendar, and “pusam” is a constellation that occurs at the first full moon of the year.  Oddly, today Thaipusam is more popular in places like Singapore, Malaysia and Mauritius, than it is in India.

A local guide reminded us that Hinduism dates back 5,000 years, and its God can be found in three roles: Brahma, the creator; Vishna, the protector; and Shiva, the destroyer (of evil).  Among Tamil-speaking Hindus, Shiva is the most celebrated, and temples in Singapore reflect this preference:  95% are dedicated to Shiva and 5% to Vishna.  There are no temples dedicated to Brahma.  Thaipusam honors Murugan, a son of Shiva.

The festival provides a chance for worshipers to demonstrate their devotion and show penitence.  Up to 48 days before the celebration, devotees begin their preparation by abstaining from all earthly pleasures.  For example, they do not eat meat and may sleep and sit on a hard floor during this time.  Only when their mind and body are pure can they undertake their kavadi – burden – without pain and blood.

To observe the festival firsthand, Erik and I went to Sri Srinivasa Perumal temple, where devotees begin their four and a half kilometer walk. This being Singapore, everything was very well organized.  There were tables set up where participants could buy tickets for their kavadi:  $15 to carry a milk pot; $30 to carry an arch; and $150 to carry a spiked altar.  They were expected to show their ticket number on demand if asked by police along the route.

Once a devotee had his ticket, he followed signs to the “Spike and Chariot assembly tent.”  Here, musicians played and people shouted to distract those having their bodies pierced with up to 100 skewers.  The skewers supported altars weighing as much as 110 pounds and boasting peacock feathers – the heavenly vehicle for Murugan – and images of favorite deities.  Some devotees pulled chariots, which resembled small wooden floats with large hooks into their backs, while others wore nail slippers.

Milk is an important part of Thaipusam.  Many carried large metal milk jugs on their heads and others had simple cartons of milk from the supermarket.  We saw devotees who had small milk containers supported by large hooks in their backs or thighs.  Milk is seen as life giving, and it is also associated with the sacred cow that helps people to plow their fields and get the nourishment they need.

While it usually takes someone 45 minutes or so to walk four and a half kilometers, those bearing elaborate kavadi often take 4 or 5 hours to reach their destination, prolonging their burden to show their devotion.  You also see them jiggling their burden to enhance the pressure on the skewers – and pain.  The motion is called, “the dance of the peacock.”

The journey ends at the Sri Thendayuthapani Temple, where we saw many devotees moved to tears as they emptied their milk jugs.  Those bearing larger burdens followed signs to the tent designated for dismantling kavadis.  Observers are free to wander throughout the temple grounds throughout the celebration.  I grimaced – even more than during the initial piercing – as I watched skewers being pulled out of men’s bodies.  The devotees, however, remained calm, their journey over for another year.

NOTE: This has absolutely nothing to do with living in Asia, but Elisa enjoyed the activity so much, I decided to share it.

At Elisa’s American school in Singapore, the kids were asked to bring in Valentines for each child in the class, just as happens in the US.  This year, she wanted to do something different than her usual handmade cards, so we decided to make edible ones using Valentine-themed cookie cutters, food markers, and a cut out cookie recipe.

Elisa’s grandmother had given her these cute Valentine cookie cutters several years ago, which feature linked hearts, a heart with an arrow piercing it, cupid, a dove, and other Valentine themes in pink, red, and white.  They are sturdy and easy to use.  Elisa, 7 years old, was able to cut out the cookies  and place them on a greased baking sheet by herself.

*****

While home last summer, we bought a pack of the Wilton Food Markers, which work the same as those used on paper.   Elisa wrote the name of each recipient on each cookie, signed her name and still had room for a decoration or two using the five basic colors provided: red, green, blue, yellow, and black. The markers hold up pretty well and after 24 cookies, we put them away to be used again the future.

*****

Here’s our favorite cut out cookie recipe my neighbor in Hong Kong, Rochelle, gave me:

Ingredients:

3 1/4 c. flour

1/2 t. baking soda

1/4 t. salt

3/4 c. butter

1 1/2 c. sugar

2 large eggs

1/4 c. sour cream

1 1/2 t. vanilla

Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs, vanilla and sour cream. Beat well.  Add dry ingredients. Mix.  Divide into thirds.  Shape each third into a disc, wrap in saran wrap, and refridgerate.  Roll out dough, cut into shapes, and bake at 350 degrees (180 Celsius) for 8 – 10 minutes.

Read about other food adventures at Wanderfood Wednesday.

Photo of Thaipusam devotee by tajai / June (Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cayce/104567964/)

Four percent of Singapore’s population is Hindu.  Thaipusam, which this year falls on Tuesday, February 7,  is an important festival among the tamil-speaking members of this group.  The celebration is rich in legends and honors Murugan, a Hindu deity and son of Shiva and Parvati.  One popular story is that Thaipusam marks the occasion when Parvati gave Murugan a spear so that he could vanquish a feared demon.

Thaipusam is perhaps best known for the procession of Hindu devotees who, on the day of the festival, carry a burden called a Kavadi.  Some bear simple Kavadi such as milk jugs, while others pierce their mouth, cheeks, and skin with rods as a demonstration of their faith.  Still other devotees balance large, complex alters boasting colorful displays of flowers, deities, and peacock feathers. These structures are supported by metal hooks and skewers, which pierce the brave participants’ upper bodies.

Well before the festival begins, devotees undertake a regime of mental and physical purification, which includes, among other things, a strict vegetarian diet.  They believe that only when they are free of all distraction can they undertake this pilgrimage without pain. 

Singapore hosts one of the largest Thaipusam festivals in Asia.  The procession begins early in the morning, as devotees carry their Kavadi on a four-kilometer route between the Sri Srinivasa Perumal and Sri Thendayuthapani Temples in Little India.  Family and friends stand by, chanting, praying and drumming to maintain morale during this sacred journey. 

This year, Erik and I plan to get up before dawn to witness this festival firsthand.  Stay tuned for photos of this unique event.

For more information on where to celebrate local holidays in Singapore, visit www.yoursingapore.com.