Singapore, together with Penang and Melaka in Malaysia, formed a triumvirate of British colonial presence in Southeast Aia.  All were, at one point, trade centers for this vast empire, and much of their colorful past remains to be viewed by those interested in the history.   After a trip to Melaka earlier this year, we set off for Penang last weekend to complete the circuit.

While there is much to see in Penang, my favorite sight was the Cheong Fatt Tze House, sometimes called “The Blue Mansion,” because of its brilliant color.  Cheong Fatt Tze (1840 – 1916) built his awe-inspiring home in the 1880’s in traditional –albeit luxurious – Chinese courtyard style.

Arriving from China penniless, Cheong began his career at 16, delivering water to homes.  He later became so wealthy and influential that many referred to him as the “Rockefeller of the East.”  An entrepreneur, he also served as a Consul General for the Qing Dynasty, a Special Trade Commissioner for Southeast Asia, and Director of China’s first bank and inaugural railway.  Called “the last Mandarin,” for the title he was granted by the Empress Dowager, he was so well regarded that upon his death, colonial Dutch and British government offices flew their flags at half-mast.

The house, painted a deep blue, boasts 38 rooms, 5 courtyards, seven staircases, and 220 windows.  I especially loved the Victorian ironworks, imported from Glasgow, the art nouveau stained-glass windows, and the mosaics made with shards of old Chinese ceramics.  Cheong Fatt Tze’s home deservedly won a UNESCO award in 2000.  It’s not a surprise that producers “Indochine,” were also impressed, and chose the mansion as the setting for this fine film.

In 1989, the house was scheduled to be demolished.  A small group of businessmen stepped in to save this cultural treasure, and today, it is a sixteen-room heritage hotel.  Tours are offered twice daily by an engaging guide who shares the mansion’s colorful history and explains why it is an example of perfect feng shui.

Photos:  An iron staircase, imported from Glasgow, exterior of the house, Cheong Fatt Tze, doors to the front porch, rickshaws left over from filming of “Indochine,” and modern sofa outside two of the guest rooms.

For more travel photos, visit Delicious Baby.

One of the most famous and popular dishes in Singapore is laksa, a thick, creamy, and utterly delicious curry soup.  Since moving here, I have learned that laksa has roots beyond Singapore.  On a trip to Melaka earlier this year, a local informed me that Malaysians also claim this dish as their own.  Indeed, he told me that each state boasts its own unique version.  Some, this restaurateur bragged, were so hot and spicy, that only the most seasoned palates  could endure – and enjoy – them.  I was intrigued.

That laksa is as popular in Malaysia as it is in Singapore was not a surprise. After all, it is part of a cuisine known as “Paranakan.”  Peranakan (pronounced “Per-AN-uh-ken”) refers to descendants of early Chinese settlers, who traveled to Singapore and parts of the Malay Peninsula, especially Melaka and Penang, and intermarried with local women.  The resulting cuisine is a wonderful blend of Chinese and Malay cooking.  Laksa is a perfect – and delicious – illustration of what combining these two great cooking traditions can produce.

I first discovered and fell in love with the rich flavors of laksa while living in Hong Kong.  At that time, I was completelyignorant of its colorful history; I only recognized it as a good bowl of noodles.   Since then, I’ve learned that the Singapore version of this soup is known for the creamy coconut milk added to the curry broth, as well as the tofu puffs, shrimp and pork (or chicken).  It is topped with a spoonful of crushed curry leaves and sambal chili paste.

Earlier this year while on a vacation in Seattle, my friend, Luanne, who had read another post on Singapore laksa, invited me to help her make it from a recipe she found on the Internet.  Though she had never tasted this traditional dish, she managed to find all the necessary ingredients at the local Asian groceries.  She even pounded fresh tamarind into the requisite paste.   The result was impressive.  Luanne was able captured the complex mix of flavors well, though the soup was a bit light on spice.  Laksa is best when it has a kick.

I had the pleasure of trying the Penang version last weekend.  Within an hour or two of our arrival on this historic Malay island, I had a fresh bowl of laksa before me.  I was surprised at the difference in flavors from that in Singapore, though it was clear the soups bore similar roots.  The Penang laksa is best described as a sour, fish stew.  Yes, it had the familiar rice noodles, but the predominant taste was of tamarind and fish sauce.   I enjoyed the large chunks of mackerel and fresh herbs on top, but the pungent mix of fish sauce and tamarind (if you didn’t get enough in the soup itself) that came on the side was too much for me, and after giving it a quick taste, I set it aside.

I had never thought of travelling to each of the Malay states, but my curiosity has been piqued, and a laksa tour may be in my future.  I’m certain it would be well worth the effort.

Photos, in order: Singapore laksa; Luanne making laksa; Luanne’s laksa; and Penang laksa.

Laksa is easy to find in Singapore, but if you want to go to one of the restaurants that claims it originated this local dish, try here.

For other food adventures, visit Wanderfood Wednesday.

When my friend, Charlene, a fellow “foodie,” first suggested we eat at “Amy’s” while visiting Malacca, I put it on my list.  Later, when she told me that it was Paranakan – and better than the Blue Ginger here in Singapore – it became a priority.   

Peranakan (pronounced “Per-AN-a-kan”) refers to descendants of early Chinese settlers, who came to Singapore and parts of the Malay peninsula, especially Malacca and Penang, and intermarried with local Malays.  The resulting cuisine is a wonderful blend of Chinese and Malay cooking.  In Malaysia, Paranakan men are called Baba and women Nyonya, and sometimes the cuisine is simply referred to as “Baba Nyonya.”

According to the menu, the founder of “Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine,” is Amy Koh, who began cooking as a young girl, taught by her grandparents and other family members.   Our waiter told us that she opened her restaurant – at the urging of her son – only upon retiring from her 33-year nursing career.  It was an instant success. (Photo: Amy’s parents)

Ms. Koh is now regularly featured in local cooking shows and has travelled to other countries, including Japan and the United Kingdom, to show off her talent as a chef.  She was invited to be guest chef at the United Nations, and more recently, she won the well-deserved award for best Paranakan restaurant in Malacca.

Amy was not there the day we arrived at her restaurant, but the elderly gentleman who greeted us was happy to talk about her attention to detail in the kitchen.  He made sure we knew that all her pastes and sauces were made with freshly ground ingredients and her cooking adhered to the principles of yin and yang.  When we didn’t order the house specialty, Sambal Jantung Pisang, a salad featuring banana blossoms in spicy coconut sauce, he convinced us of our grave error, and we agreed to add it to our order.

My family left Amy’s completely sated.  We agreed that if our only stop in Malacca was this small casual eatery, the trip would have been a success. 

In case you find yourself in this historic town, here are some of the dishes I recommend:

• Pie Tee – One of my favorite Paranakan dishes – shredded bamboo shoots and turnips garnished with shrimp in crispy little cups;


• Ikan Cili Garam – Deep-fried fish in a garlic-flavored chili sauce;


• Ayam Buah Keluak – Chicken in Nyonya spicy gravy with black nuts; and


• Amy’s Ayam Goreng – My daughter’s favorite, Nyonya fried chicken.

With this trip, I had planned to check Malacca off my list; however, thoughts of Amy’s linger and may just bring me back for a second indulgence.

Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine
75, Jalan Melaka Raya 24
Taman Melaka Raya
75000 Melaka

Tel.  06-286 8819
Reservations recommended.

Read about other food adventures at Wanderfood Wednesday.