When my friend, Charlene, a fellow “foodie,” first suggested we eat at “Amy’s” while visiting Malacca, I put it on my list. Later, when she told me that it was Paranakan – and better than the Blue Ginger here in Singapore – it became a priority.
Peranakan (pronounced “Per-AN-a-kan”) refers to descendants of early Chinese settlers, who came to Singapore and parts of the Malay peninsula, especially Malacca and Penang, and intermarried with local Malays. The resulting cuisine is a wonderful blend of Chinese and Malay cooking. In Malaysia, Paranakan men are called Baba and women Nyonya, and sometimes the cuisine is simply referred to as “Baba Nyonya.”
According to the menu, the founder of “Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine,” is Amy Koh, who began cooking as a young girl, taught by her grandparents and other family members. Our waiter told us that she opened her restaurant – at the urging of her son – only upon retiring from her 33-year nursing career. It was an instant success. (Photo: Amy’s parents)
Ms. Koh is now regularly featured in local cooking shows and has travelled to other countries, including Japan and the United Kingdom, to show off her talent as a chef. She was invited to be guest chef at the United Nations, and more recently, she won the well-deserved award for best Paranakan restaurant in Malacca.
Amy was not there the day we arrived at her restaurant, but the elderly gentleman who greeted us was happy to talk about her attention to detail in the kitchen. He made sure we knew that all her pastes and sauces were made with freshly ground ingredients and her cooking adhered to the principles of yin and yang. When we didn’t order the house specialty, Sambal Jantung Pisang, a salad featuring banana blossoms in spicy coconut sauce, he convinced us of our grave error, and we agreed to add it to our order.
My family left Amy’s completely sated. We agreed that if our only stop in Malacca was this small casual eatery, the trip would have been a success.
In case you find yourself in this historic town, here are some of the dishes I recommend:
- Pie Tee – One of my favorite Paranakan dishes – shredded bamboo shoots and turnips garnished with shrimp in crispy little cups;
- Ikan Cili Garam – Deep-fried fish in a garlic-flavored chili sauce;
- Ayam Buah Keluak – Chicken in Nyonya spicy gravy with black nuts; and
- Amy’s Ayam Goreng – My daughter’s favorite, Nyonya fried chicken.
With this trip, I had planned to check Malacca off my list; however, thoughts of Amy’s linger and may just bring me back for a second indulgence.
Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine
75, Jalan Melaka Raya 24
Taman Melaka Raya
75000 Melaka
Tel. 06-286 8819
Reservations recommended.
Read about other food adventures at Wanderfood Wednesday.