In Bhutan they are considered a vegetable. Not a spice. (And I’m not talking about the band.) Which to me is crazy. I mean after one bite, one tiny bite, it was too much for me. Way too hot and way too spicy. I quickly grabbed a glass of water, and tried to calm my mouth-that-was-on-fire. Of course I knew this would happen, because my mouth is quite sensitive to eating hot and spicy foods. But I had to try this vegetable anyway. Because after all I was in Bhutan, where chilies are a must ingredient for the Bhutanese palate.
Chilies in Bhutan are called “Ema.” They are eaten by the fork-full (or spoon-full, I suppose) by the Bhutanese. And without the need for a quick glass of water just after one bite! Ema are introduced very early in life, even to toddlers, because not only are chilies a big part of Bhutanese cuisine, they are also a big part of Bhutanese culture, tradition, and life. It is possible that Ema might have become this way because the Bhutanese live in a cold climate, in the Himalayas, and when people eat hot food, such as chili, it warms them up.
Growing chilies is practically a year-long process. Sometime before February and March, when chili seeds are sown into the fertile soil, the chili fields are first irrigated with water to make plowing easier. The chili fields are actually plowed twice so that the soil becomes very fertile, and good fruits (chilies) will be grown.
Once chili saplings grow to a certain height, they are transplanted to another field, and proper spacing is placed between the saplings. This occurs mostly during the months of April, May, June, and sometimes July. While transplanting the chili saplings water is given continuously until the saplings grow bigger, and become strong and mature. Within two months the saplings will then bloom flowers and the fruits (chilies), which start out being green, but eventually change color to red.
Chilies are harvested once they turn a flaming red color during the months of September and October. At this point the chilies need to be dried for about a month to prevent them from getting spoiled. They are dried outdoors. In the sun. In the fresh air. If you are in Bhutan at this time, you can see chilies drying practically everywhere. On rooftops. (Yes, rooftops.) Hanging out of windows. Lying out on the ground. It is like the country is decorated with displays of red roses; only they are really displays of red chilies.
I watched this woman spread out chilies on the rooftop of her barn.
Chilies actually come in several varieties and colors, such as red, green, and white. Red chilies are called Ema Mab. Green chilies can be turned into white chilies by simmering them in water for a half hour. These are called Ema Shukam. And smaller chilies that did not grow as well are cut into two to three pieces vertically, and called Ema Hongkom.
Ema Datse (the dish where after one bite I needed that quick glass of water) is one of the three national dishes of Bhutan. The main ingredients of this dish are well, red chilies, and cheese (Datse), onions, tomato, and salt. (The other two national dishes are made without chilies, red rice and butter tea (su ja).)
Many, many other dishes in Bhutan also contain chilies. In fact I bought a Bhutanese cookbook, and in flipping through the pages, 24 of the 27 recipes (yes, almost all of them) call for some variation of chilies…and I quote…red chilies, green chilies, dried chilies, fresh chilies, dry green chilies, dried red chilies, fresh green chilies, large green chilies, red chili pieces, chili powder, chili paste, 4-5 chilies (dried or fresh), dried chilies or half teaspoon of chili powder… or just chilies.
Ema are even eaten whole and raw dipped into salt by the Bhutanese! Wow!!
Did you know that chilies have some nutritional value, as they include vitamins B6, A, and C, as well as magnesium, potassium, iron, and dietary fiber? No wonder Ema are considered a vegetable in Bhutan.
As you can see red hot chili peppers are definitely loved by the Bhutanese and are a big part of their life.
But have no fear. If you are like me, very sensitive to eating hot and spicy foods, the Bhutanese make for the travelers many, many excellent dishes, without any chilies.
Sweet (and hot and spicy) Travels!
Some information about chilies, especially the growing process and the names of the varieties, was graciously provided to me by one of my Bhutanese guides, Pema Wangchuk, and also by his Grandmother. Thank you both!!
Other sources:
Bhutan’s Love Affair with Chilies, BBC News
Ema: The Fiery Bhutanese Food, Kuensel Online
For more great food, please check out WanderFood Wednesday.