After an amazingly relaxing week in Varakala (a little TOO relaxing, I might add), I shot back up to Delhi via a JetLite flight. I was a bit concerned about an airline that calls itself “lite”, but, despite the fact that it departed a couple of hours late, I found it to be quite comfortable.
Once I landed in Delhi, I discovered that the pre-paid taxi stand inside the terminal was the best way to make arrangements to my guest house, the Wongdhen House, located in the Tibetan Refugee Colony of Majnu Ka Tilla. Because of the parking fees and surcharges that drivers have to pay to get into the airport area, the pre-paid taxis actually end up being cheaper than a pre-arranged taxi (through your hotel, for example).
I like Delhi. Perhaps it’s because I’m used to large cities (I grew up just outside of NYC) or because I like having options of a million things to do. I also have friends in Delhi which makes any unknown place more interesting and comfortable.
Overall, my days were filled with eating amazing food at the Wongdhen House (including porridge and Tibetan toast, momos and endless cups of tea and milk coffee), shopping and generally taking in the sights as I bittersweetly said my goodbyes to Mother India.
Warm porridge and milk coffee kept me warm.
Veggie fried momos – a Tibetan specialty.
My last thali in India – a variety of dishes accompanied by chapati.
Delhi was ffffffreezing. I had nearly left my sweater behind in Kerala thinking that I wouldn’t need it during my last few days but I was happy to have it. I bundled up day and night to stay warm and wore socks underneath my Teva sandals.
I met wonderful people in the restaurant in the Wongdhen’s small restaurant. Mary, from Bloomington, Indiana was in India on her 7th or 8th trip to help Tibetan monks get visas to come to the U.S. She said it’s getting harder and harder to get visas issued since 9/11 (you never know about those monks masquerading as terrorists!). John, from Brooklyn, was traveling for a month throughout the country and ended up accompanying me on a trip to Agra, along with Sumitra (an amazing woman running tours for women whom I’ll blog about later). I met up with Isabelle, whom I’d met at both Amma’s ashram (she took me in and showed me the ropes with regards to receiving darshan) and in Varkala. She had just arrived at Wongdhen on her way to Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama is headquartered. I also had breakfast with a couple who live near my home in Seattle – they had read about the Wongdhen House in one of my posts on the Seattle PI site and our paths crossed just for the day as they arrived just 24 hours before I was leaving.
Many people don’t like Delhi. They find it crowded, polluted, traffic-filled, unwelcoming. Delhi can be all this and more. But it can also be all-embracing, friendly, beautiful, clean (but still crowded). I urge anyone with a stopover there to give the city a chance. Here are some tips for making the most of your time there:
1. Stay in a quiet neighborhood. Majnu Ka Tilla is a good option as it is away from the main city area and is found behind a walled-in area where rickshaws and cars are not allowed. It’s peaceful.
2. Try a home stay. Join a program like Servas, Couchsurfing.com, Globalfreeloaders.com or stay in a bed and breakfast. The B&B’s are just becoming popular and promoted by the government and tourism boards. These allow you to get a glimpse into how the locals live and, often, homes are found in residential, gated communities which will be far more quiet than in locations where hotels are found.
3. Take the metro. This new (and expanding) system is clean, fast, safe and cheap. You don’t have to deal with the traffic and pollution in the streets and it covers many parts of the city.
4. Hire a driver for a day. Whether it’s in a rickshaw or an air-conditioned taxi, for about $15-$20, you can hire a driver who will bring you to all parts of the city. This is perfect for getting to areas where the metro doesn’t yet reach and for shopping sprees. I spent a day with a driver where he let me do my shopping at my own pace. I even visited a friend in a hospital while he waited. I could leave my bags in the car and didn’t have to worry about dragging my purchases around with me.
5. Narrow down the number of sights you’d like to see and pick those that are of most interest. Delhi has a lot to offer but you’ll burn yourself out trying to see everything. Spend one full day seeing the sights and then give yourself a rest.
Aaaaah, I could go on. For more tips, you’ll have to read the book (due out this spring).
Travel Well!
You can also read about my India travels on my blog at the Seattle Post Intelligencer.
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Jean Schroy says
Guess you will be home soon.I am reading ONLY A WEEK AWAY and love it. I am vry proud of my niece.It has been fun reading about your travels love Jean
Molly says
Super tips for getting started in such a large city! Great looking food, by the way.
Peter says
Nice tips. Will keep this in mind if travels should ever take me to Delhi!
Joyce Varghese says
Dear Beth:
My friend, who is a 1st generation Italian American and I, a 1st generation Indian American and are doing a “cultural exchange”. My family is from Kerala, so I absolutely understand the beauty that is of the southern state. We are starting in Delhi, and are actually staying at the Wongdhen House! We are starting in Italy on March 30th and will be in India starting April 25th. Thank you for all your tips! I am so excited!